Hey,anyone know much about the 3racing chassis? Where did they extend it? Is it like the 3.3 chassis? Or did they extend the rear.
Saw a picture of someone that did a home made extended on the rear of the chassis,which moved the motor more towards the center and I would like to look into getting a chassis like that.
Doesnt matter if it will fit the rear brake. I can do some work to make it fit.
Casketman Wrote:Hey,anyone know much about the 3racing chassis? Where did they extend it? Is it like the 3.3 chassis? Or did they extend the rear.
Saw a picture of someone that did a home made extended on the rear of the chassis,which moved the motor more towards the center and I would like to look into getting a chassis like that.
3Racing=iffy. Not great quality, not crap. If it's something that takes a medium beating or less on the car it'll be fine. I wouldn't go for the chassis. I haven't personally seen someone extend the rear of a revo mainly because of the bulkhead setup and attachment to the motor mount and such. Most if not all are front extended.
Oh the 3racing one is front ext.
Didnt think about the mount. Ok,thanks.
I do remember reading about the first set of 3racing chassis that came out and they were basicly crap. Bent if you looked at it wrong LOL.. I have seen they have been tweeking them and getting better. Wasnt sure how far they have come in that.
If you're gonna buy an extended chassis, just get the new 3.3 one. It won't have any weld marks like all the aftermarket ones.
All the others out there were simply 2 stock chassis's that were cut and re-welded to get them extended.
The 3 racing chassis is more crap then good. From what ive read on other forums when they first came out probly 75% of the people had bad luck while the others had ok luck. Its not for bashing, its not for racing. Its fine for say drag racing at best. I wouldnt waste your money on it IMO
I say get the stock 3.3 chassis as well and then throw the rear arms on that are extended (set-backs).
having some probs getting out the sleeve from my 2.5r, tried the toothbrush method of using the handle, also tried the same method but with the back of a pen also. no luck. any body have any other ways to get the piston and sleeve out?
heat gun and force. Get that block up to 150 and you shouldnt have any problems getting it out then.
Did you try sticking a wide folded over zip tie and turning over the crankshaft? That always works for me.
Or you could take a hammer and smash it until it comes out.
mash:
revo2k could you explain your method some more?
mich, i aint got a heat gun. i really need one but currently i dont have one. although it sounds like that would work really well.
if you don't have a heat gun, throw it in the oven.
take a big ziptie, fold it in half, stick it through the exhaust port from the inside of the sleeve>out, turn the crankshaft, then pry it up with a little flat head once you can get a piece of it.
+1, But I put it thru the exhaust into the cylinder. Tex, any reason why your or my way might be better? Just wondering the pros/cons.
You can do it either way
inside>out seems to push the sleeve up a bit further.
take a hair dryer and heat iut up for like 5 minutes, and make sure you use gloves to hold it, try to get it up to 150 or so, then take a pan and push it up, then use a flat head to pry it up a little, then pull it out, and whalla
traxxas thrasher Wrote:take a hair dryer and heat iut up for like 5 minutes, and make sure you use gloves to hold it, try to get it up to 150 or so, then take a pan and push it up, then use a flat head to pry it up a little, then pull it out, and whalla
Thats pretty much what everybody already said lol. You just combined a little bit of everyones post and made your own you post whore LOL jk.
Michowski Wrote:Thats pretty much what everybody already said lol. You just combined a little bit of everyones post and made your own you post whore LOL jk.
well mine sounded better...ahahah he said he didnt have a heat gun, so use a hair dryer
Did the side pipe mod on the revo. It looks good. Now just need to figure out what body will fit right. But I need to get the 3.3 chassis first. I am leaning more towards the new Vantage CF chassis. They extended it in a different spot then other chassis are done.
Thinking the CRT body. Not sure yet.
Slayden Side pipe-
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=335993
sweet I had a OS2050 on my revo at one time, I liked it.
ive heard that a person that had the ext cf chassis snapped it in half?
wouldnt doubt if you had a chunk missing out of the chassis and you bashed it hard itd snap.
IMO I would just go with the traxxas extended chassis. Its only like 40 bucks and allows you to just drop there center diff in and go. Your not gonna lose or win a race because you have the carbon fiber chassis or stock one. Whats going to win you the race is being consistant on the track and practicing as much as possible out there. Even if your doing great in practice and making super fast runs and think you cant get any better just do a few more tanks.
It never mattered if my revo weighed upper 10 pounds or around 7 and a half pounds. Practicing a lot made me consistant and always landed somewere in the upper A-main. So I wouldnt waste your money on the carbon fiber chassis. My main reason is I dont think it could hold up to all the abuse a revo goes through. I would hate to see you have one bad hit and chip it and then lose a race a few laps later because your chassis wasnt strong enough.
I am not really worried about getting a chip or it breaking for that matter. I do plan to have the old chassis around. And maybe a new 3.3 around down the road. I dont really care about the weight either. It all comes down to driving IMO. But this chassis has been reworked and extended in a different spot then the other extended chassis for the revo. A couple of people at the traxxas forums have said the same thing. I know this from a email I got from Vantage when I asked why they inclued 2 new center drive shafts. This is what I was told
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for your interest in our products. For our extended chassis kit RE0302, we’ve included 2 drive shafts because it is an upgrade. Instead of having to purchase the other one later, we’ve included everything for a race ready upgrade. Our extension is from the middle back where we have also pushed up the servo placing for better balance. The set of drive shaft which we also offer as a single option (RE0003) works with the factory 3.3 also. However if you were to install the rear brake kit, you would need to use the factory one. Hope this helps and thanks for your continued support!
Vantage Racing, Inc.
As for how well it will hold up. I am not to worried. My last 2.5 chassis took a hit from a car and only cracked(not even fully,more like 80% thru) just behind the motor mount on the chassis. Nothing major. The motor tilts up just a hair because of it,but that is easy to fix(shim the mount) and it wasnt doing any harm anyway. I took it off because the truck was to light,and I felt that if I put some more weight back in. I could finally get fully adjusted to the other changes I had made. I had done to much at once so the truck was something way different then what it was before. I shall not make that mistake again.