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Break-in Problems
#26
I think my ARO is ATM Fluid. Soon as I finish it off I am gonna get some MMO.
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#27
hey michowski what engine do you run in your revo?


thanks, traxxas thrasher
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#28
os .18tm
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#29
Well I only have three 5 minute runs left.

Done today because dead ignitor battery again. I am going to charge my second one while I am at school.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#30
Hey Mich,

What kind of chassis, fuel tank, radio and servos do you use?

Sorry, TT, couldn't let you off that easy. Welcome to the wiseguy world. I love ya man. Big Grin
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#31
Just wondering, why is the engine so hard to start? I pre-heat it to around 150 with with a hair dryer. Can't start it. I can get it started if I open the throttle a little bit. I need to stay on the throttle just a tad ( not even enough to make the wheels move off the ground ) to keep it running until it gets to nice temps.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#32
its because its still very tight. the piston is AL and Sleve is chrome plated brass. The two metals have different expansion rates. When the engine is below full operating tempreature the piston sill want to stick in the sleve at TDC (Top Dead Center). After you get it warmed up the tollerance in the piston/sleve opens up a bit more and it runs better. As you break in the engine it will get easier to start.
-- John --
1:1.. 01 Z28 Camaro A4 Sure.. its stock.
1:8's.. K3, Inferno GT, and a straight line beater car
1:18.. RC18t Mamba and 3s lipo
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#33
Are blowing gas into the carb? or putting your finger on the stinger to prime her up?
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#34
Ok, I am getting really frustrated with all this pulling. I have cuts all over my fingers. I am not exactly sure what they are hitting, but I can feel the blood running down my hands and then I notice little slices.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#35
No problems so far. I just got done with two 5 minute runs. One left. My question is should I keep the aluminum foil on the head after break-in?
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#36
just run it as normal
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#37
take it off after break in and just start slowly tunning for performance. I had about 4 tanks on my brand new motor when i first went to the dirt dawgs race and that thing was just driving like i had 3 gallons on it. TO this day with over a gallon on it i still have a lot of trouble turning the flywheel. Just start tunning it and driving it like normal after you get done with that last 5 minute run.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#38
Break-in is done. :joy:

I am going to do a tank tonight, and do some tomorrow. No school. Big Grin
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#39
for the first tank after the heat cycle take it a little slow and dont just go wot. Give it a lot of wot to idle blipping just to kind of ease the motor into it.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#40
Thats pretty much what I did. Temps are 230-250. Still going to lean it out a bit.

Scratched the cooling head a bit. Sad Tapped the throttle and hit a bump in my lawn. Luckily my shock tower posts are pretty high and protected it a lot.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#41
mine ran 235 all day and had mean power
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#42
Big Grin I wish I would have had this motor at the bash.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#43
u wanna hit all throttle ranges through break in. I dunno if i would run it a 240ish since its an .18 most O.S. motors run outstanding at 200-210 range. I usually heat cycle my motors. I usually get to around 12 tanks or so before i let the temps get up to about 240-260 just my $.02
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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