I just got done trying to break my os .18 cv-rx in.
I have aluminum foil all over the cooling head and the temps are 130. What can I do? I still want to try to get some of it done today.
Also it seems really slow. When I just blip the throttle it really doesn't move. I almost have to pull the trigger half way to get it to move.
thats normal to not have any speed, just start leaning it out untill temps get to at least 200
Ok, thanks. I'll get back out there with my flashlight after dinner. :lol:
Can't wait until I get it done and can start ripping around. :joy:
130 = super rich. lean it out.
how many tanks did you do at 130F
None. I stopped. I just got it running at 210. I did one 3 minute run, then cool at BDC. Going to maybe do one or two more 3 minute runs after I eat.
I had to lift the wheels off the ground. It would always die if I tried driving it.
Just lean the LSN a bit until it's driveable....Then stop leaning it and stay where the settings are at.
Well I am done for today. I think my glow ignitor battery is dead. I just got done charging it fully before I used it. I thought I burnt a plug because it didn't light, and the second plug light barely, but didn't after the first time.
So I will be back tomorrow. I have nothing going after school so I should be able to get it done tomorrow if no unexpected problems occur.
Should I do after run procedure or just let it go until tomorrow?
Personally, I don't use afterrun oil. I'll use a little wd-40 if the motor will sit for more than 2 weeks without being started, but that's about it.
For 1 night, I don't think it's required.
I use WD-40 also. Alot cheaper and a lot of people recommend it.
I already did after run. Hopefully my ignitor doesn't go bad tomorrow and I can finish break-in.
I use Marvel Mystery oil for after run if I use it at all. Many of the store bought Rc specific After run oils I've bought over the years end up being nothing but Marvel mystery oil or trans fluid.
edit...
marvel mystery oil.
http://www.autobarn.net/chmm013.html
And what do you? Just pour it it or put it in like a spray bottle? I don't know how thick it is so I am not sure if it will fit in a spray bottle.
For after run use just pull out the glow plug. put a few drops into the engine and crank it over once and its done. all you want is the oil to coat everything inside the engine and keep moisture from rusting the bearings and crank.
Normaly I don't use after run oil. The only times I do use it is on engines that are tight or engine that I just repaired or had apart that I want to be sure there is oil in the case when I first crank it or if its damp out when I run the engine.
If you hit 210 (not a problem) and had enough to get the wheels off of the ground already you may be rushing the break in a bit... They should put for about 2 tanks then go on to half throttle and full throttle runs...
he said he had to pick the truck up off the ground to get the wheels going (it's so rich) or something to that fact
you should be able to jog as fast as the truck can move during break in.
Tex Wrote:he said he had to pick the truck up off the ground to get the wheels going (it's so rich) or something to that fact
Oh... then don't mind me. I am sleepy and high on REVO. Must not have read well...
Yeah, I had the wheels off the ground. I will atleast have some light today to work worth.
lean it a little bit UE-maxx. if it can't go under it's own power it's too rich
This is the method I use and is generally regarded as the most common method. Now if its the best I am not sure, but my engine runs great. It is known as the Heat Cycling method. I got this info from Nitro Dan over at
http://www.affordablenitrotech.com, seller of reasonably price Novarossi mills. I have also included a link to a tuning guide that was written by the famous Ron Paris of Paris Racing.
The first procedure is called "heat cycling", this is the most important part of break-in and almost no one does it. Start the engine and let it idle, after 1-2 minutes feel the cylinder head, you want it to be hot enough so you can't grab on to it for more than 10 seconds at the base of the head. Stop the engine, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, let it completely cool down, back to stone cold. Repeat this process at least 10 times !!! I usually dedicate the first tank of fuel to this process. It's going to take some time to do this so be patient.
Now you can take it out and run it. Open the main needle one full turn. The next 4 tanks, run at no more than 1/2 throttle and vary the speed up and down. Let it completely cool down between runs and always make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke while it is cooling. Try to run the engine in the 200 degree range during this period.
Now 4 more tanks running up to 3/4 throttle, run it in the same manner as before.
Now you can go wide open, make sure to run it on the rich side for another 6 tanks. Don't try to grab a lot of ponies yet. ( this is easier said than done !!)
Now you can let it rip. These engines run best at temps 220 to 240 degrees. There should always be a VISABLE line of smoke coming from the exhaust stinger.
Good luck with your break-in. Take your time and do it right and you will be rewarded with an engine that runs stronger and lasts longer than you have ever seen. I highly recommend Blue Thunder RACE FORMULA 20% nitro fuel. I burn about 3 cases of it a year and have never had a problem with it. Make sure it is the RACE formula as it has extra castor oil added. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I will answer as soon as I can.
Dan
Paris Racing Tuning Guide
SixVi6-Camaro Wrote:I use Marvel Mystery oil for after run if I use it at all. Many of the store bought Rc specific After run oils I've bought over the years end up being nothing but Marvel mystery oil or trans fluid.marvel mystery oil. http://www.autobarn.net/chmm013.html
MMO is the stuff. Used it in air tools for 20 years. You're paying for the small bottle when you get ARO at the LHS. The oil is the same.