ChitownRC

ya those 4 or 5 different ones i bought must all have been shitty

I dunno I had a Hangar 9 one and it blew I totally charged it up and it wouldn't turn over the motor in my Mugen (yes guys I finally figured out what the problem was, gotta hate when it's the simple things that make you sell)

there is 2 manuals, one for the regular version and one for the pro, follow the regular ones till you get to a step that is in the pro manual then follow that. not hard at all and kit fits great just take your time.

yup i will. It took me like 5 days on and off to build the buggy so this one should be a little shorter since i got the basic idea of how it should go.

I didnt have good luck with the gel cells either. Besides all the other complaints listed above , one thing that really pissed me off is that it seem to loose power pretty quick from just sitting outside in the sun at those hot outdoor races. The gel cells I used were the hanger9 also. Since switching to stick packs I have not had any of the issues I had with gel, plus its nice to be able to charge with my car charger at those 2-3 day events Ive never been too...

im a n00b, and I use sticks<<<thx to Chad!!! yay!!!

I copied this from truggyracers.com.


Here are some build tips for guys putting together a MBX5T (or buggy)


The biggest tip would be prepping the diff cups and double-gasketing them. Using like 3 different grit sandpapers (I use emery cloth) you want to sand the cups until they’re smooth as glass. I use 320 grit, then 800 grit and finally 1500 grit. Place the paper on a perfectly smooth table and hold the cup on the paper. Swirl it around in a figure 8 pattern. The idea is to get the cup perfectly smooth and flat. When you go up to 800 grit, you’ll quickly see the plastic get very shiny smooth. If you didn’t go long enough on the 320 grit, you’ll clearly see it. I then do a quick run with the 1500 grit and they’re dead straight. What this does is ensures the cup won’t leak against the ring gear or spur gear. Most people blame the leaky Mugen diffs on the o-rings, but 95% are at the cup (just take two cups and face them together and see the light in between them as you rotate them face to face). Remember, the cups are not machined, they're molded.




my question ism what exact part of the diff cup are they talking about, im pretty sure its this part but not 100%,



also what do you do with the brake linkage. I heard it hits the tank guard?

That's the edge there referring to. If you take 2 cup and hold them together at that edge you may see the imperfection of the mold. Assuming the gears are perfectly flat, you'd want the mounting surface of the cup to be flat also to have a good seal. put that sandpaper down on something flat like glass or a mirror and sand the cups in a figure eight till you can see the cup has been sanded around the whole circumference of the sealing edge.
As for the linkage, depending which servo horns you use (I used the sportwerks throttle brake horn) you mount the brake linkage on the outside holes so the rods are at a slight angle clearing that splash shields.

got it today and im on the diffs. Is it okay if theyre kinda "choppy"? They are. What would i do to fix that?

nvm i got it. Its just the orings. theyre a little tight and prolly will be until i get em broken in a little better.





edit: They i tried it out without the orings for a second and it still did the same thing. I think they have to be shimed but im not sure how to do it. Does anyone know how?

The ring and pinion should roll smoothly, without any tight spots. Also, the internal differential action should be smooth as butter, no hint of any ratcheting. Even a brand new one shouldn't.

Well thats the opposite of mine lol. How do i fix it? links to shimming?

few questions:

1. Will ca glue work for glueing the brake pads to the metal things?

2. For mugen owners, those little s3 o-rings. Theres 8 of them, but it only tells you to use 6. Am i missing something or is there extras? (It says use 4 on the front diff. None on the back. And 2 on the middle.)

CA should work for the brake pads.

With the ring and pinion, wait until someone who owns one comments (absolutely no offence 3rdgen) b/c IDK about mugens but all 8 kits bind when new, after a few tanks they break in and loosen up.

dont use the little s3 orings in the diffs...throw them away. ca is fine for the brakes, and the diffs will be a little notchey when they are new...not hard to turn but a few small spots that they are ruff are ok, just be sure to grease them with the same grease as you used in the diffs (mobil 1).

alright thanks. I used the ca for the pads and it works great. And casketman was also telling me not to use the s3 o-rings so im gonna take em out tomorrow cause theyre a pins in the ass.

Dont use any of the small orings. Make sure you use lots of grease on the out drives, o'rings, shim's. Mugen diffs are tight from the start and will meed a tank or two to break in. So tight in fact that if you don't use enough grease out drives will seize in cup or ring gear from the heat build up. Good grease is very important. Use a red high temp moly based grease like the Mobile 1 stuff Chad showed you.
That crunchy will go away in a tank or two.

And I never glued the pads to shoes...Makes it harder to change the pads when needed.

yup casketman also told me that. And yes i got mobile1 from auto zone the other day and used it earlier. That one tube should last for like 5 years lol.

I got alot done today for working for about 5 hours. I just gotta finish the center diff mounts and put it all on the chassis. Its nice. Cant wait to try it out.

Don't forget to take pictures while its all new and shiny. In the sunlight ofcourse because that makes it look really good.

i will. I should have it done today.

Sorry guys no pics yet cause i got back from a friends house a little later than i expected today. I will be done tomorrow for sure since all i have to do is build the shocks and paint the body.

Hey i was just wondering if anyone has any like cheap or even free (ill pay shipping) Tires that are like balded or anything because i really need some break in tires cause im gonna use the stockers for a bit at the track to save some cash. Thanks in advance.

Alright i got pics. Ill get some with the engine and body when i get the engine, and get the body painted.