Just got some new additions for my fish tank

[t to the maxx2]

Ah okay.

RODI= Reverse Osmosis Deionized
The sump goes under the tank and cycles the water back. It is a good thing to have and you can remove the hang on you have---it almost does not do you much and wastes electricity.
Oh I forgot to mention this too---Don't use the BIOBALLS--it is a nitrate factory.
Okay stop buying LR for a while and allow your tank to settle in. If you keep going like this you can run the risk if Ditom bloom(Algea) Which you should know about when you cycled your tank.
Depending how much Livestock lay low and allow that too to settle in.
Add things slow and easy---be patient( I know it is hard ) it will be worth it.
Right now, I have 2 emerald crabs, a sally lightfoot, tons of hermits and snails, a clownfish, a royal gramma, and the corals.
Be very careful on what the guy at the LFS tells you. Some places tell you things only to get you to come back and buy more crud you may not need and cause you to pollute your tank.
I really highly doubt he would do that. He knows me and my tank, he knows that I have an OK understanding of fish, and research, or try to as much as possible, for example, today i asked about a mandiran dragon fish, which I knew wouldn't do well yet, and he said not for a while, till we say it's OK. Basically he treats my tank as one of his own.
All you need for equipment:
Lights
Skimmer
Hydrometer
Sump
Return pump for sump
Power heads
Heater.

Note in some of my pics showing all my equipment----nothing was in the show tank. everything I did was through the sump and I also heated water there to.
Oh and when you make up your water change.
Use an airpump to airate the water and a power head along with a heater.
YOu want to match as close as possible to the tank water.
Cold salt water and heated salt water does change your salinity readings.
It is also a good idea to test the PH of the fresh mix, You can get it up prior to adding to the tank.

Oh and you should have PH readings with lights on around 8.0 and expect it to go up to 8.2-8.3 with lights off---it might be the other way around.
Also you want your Alkalinity to be in the area of 7-11DKH preferable 10-11 DKH is very good place to be.
Calcium you want around 425ppm and Magnesium around 1300ppm.
Oh and zero phosphates---this will cause algea to grow like crazy which means you are nutrient rich and in turn you need to cut back on the amount you feed.

I hope CEME is reading all this and taking notes 8-)

responses in bold