ChitownRC

so say if that was a buggy motor, thats about 300 tanks of fuel, @ about 10 minutes a piece. Thats about 50 total hours of run time. I'd say that's pretty good.

ya its definetly getting ur moneys worth; thats why i tell guys to go with a little more expensive motor, you will rarely see that much fuel in a cheapie ofna motor

I don't like to chince on stuff, but I've never had bad luck with my Traxxas motors so far, and they run great for my needs. So I say, why not. lol

they aren't bad motors but ive seen alot of crap ones. not as many good options for the displacment the smaller trucks need. there are a ton of good .12's but the .18's that are out there now arent the greatest

After my .15 died I opted for the .20, I plan on snagging a BB for the outdoor track eventually...but Chances are that won't be until next season. (I run a revo)

well from what ive seen the BB in the revos are more trouble than they are worth

I've heard the same thing, but I was thinking a low end 21 will get the job done.

Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:well from what ive seen the BB in the revos are more trouble than they are worth

i had the axial .28 in mine, it took a few hours to get eh throttle linkage set up, installing the motor takes a few minutes, its the throttle linkage that needs messing with.

for bashing the BB is great, for racing i would not switch to a BB, if you want to go faster get a O.S .18 TZ or TM, or get the EB modded TZ, either of those engines will be faster then the 3.3 is.

yeah I know but I liked the speed the 3.3 Offered for my budget.

Only reason I was gonna up to big block is for the heck of it. I wouldnt want a big huge .28 I'd just opt for a nice OS .21. I got the center diff and brakes and all of that so I don't think I would wheely everywhere.

well from all the guys like tex that put HIGH END .21's in revos they just tore up spur gears and drivetrain parts at the track. I dont think a plastic drivetrain can handle that much power, but if you did go with a center diff it may work

Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:well from all the guys like tex that put HIGH END .21's in revos they just tore up spur gears and drivetrain parts at the track. I dont think a plastic drivetrain can handle that much power, but if you did go with a center diff it may work

Mike...From what I've seen the plastic in revos holds up fine (transmission) it was some pin that kept snapping.

maybe im just thinking of bobbo's revo shearing spur gears every 2 tanks lol

Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:maybe im just thinking of bobbo's revo shearing spur gears every 2 tanks lol

Shearing Spur gears is alot better than Shearing your transmission.

I think the tranny can handle it. Make sure the slipper isnt too tight and don't land on throttle and I think it would be okay. Lol

as long as you uypgrade to FOC and center diff your tranny will be just fine. the reason is the FOC and center diff are stronger gears plus the center diff keeps teh jarring down on the tranny

i used a plastic spur gear on my BB and never once stripped it out, still looked great when i got rid of the revo

Yeah I've never damage a spur gear ever...the Reverse was out of my trans in about a week after I got it. It's quite sturdy. Its prolly got 5 gallons on the truck as a whole, and the gears are still in perfect condition.

how would a savage 21 be in a revo

Meatwad Wrote:how would a savage 21 be in a revo

.....Slower than a 3.3......

the 3.3 is sick fast for its size...I'll admit. I was keeping up with a Sirio .23 @ my last race day

BB's in revos are cool for bashing, not good for racing. My gears were fine when I had a .21 in my revo I just kept breaking the pins that hold the gears on the shafts in the tranny. If you case a jump funny and chassis flex is involved it's a lot easier to strip spurs too.

As far as having the slipper setup right, mine felt too loose or too tight, no in between with that much power involved. If I did get it till it felt good then it loosened itself up after 3-4 laps. That's with loctite on the nut that holds the slipper....

Revos are a lot more raceable (easier to drive fast), more durable, and are able to lay down faster lap times with a small block engine.

I see most guys just run the small Blocks. I was just wanting to try it. So when you speak of the pins shearing, you're talking about the little screw thingys inside the trans that hold the gears in place right?

J-Dub Wrote:I see most guys just run the small Blocks. I was just wanting to try it. So when you speak of the pins shearing, you're talking about the little screw thingys inside the trans that hold the gears in place right?

since i have personal knowledge of putting in a BB in a revo this is all i have to say about it

it is a mony pit, thats why i got rid of it

I've already spent alot of money to make it handle better and be faster. and even if I did put a big block in there, I'd only be going up to a 3.5cc Buggy Motor.

J-Dub Wrote:So when you speak of the pins shearing, you're talking about the little screw thingys inside the trans that hold the gears in place right?

exactly.......... I made sure to run a soft hitting clutch too so I wouldn't get that super hard jolt with throttle applied. I ran a clutch setup that would enguage (sp?) right away at very low RPM.

The pins would snap halfway through the RPM range on the power just from brute power....

3.5cc buggy engines are a lot different than any Traxxas motor, even the 3.3(being a .20)... .21's have a lot more power, even the low budget ones.

There is a fine line between having a fast revo and having too much power. Too much power just throws the truck around and makes it hard to drive on the track.

Im sure that they have alot more torque, and torque is what breaks stuff.

I don't know I will see what happens in the future with it. I wanna do a small big block, but I don't wanna break everything. What engine were you running in yours tex?

Double Post Delete! >_<