stop picking on me god gabe defend me!
lmao
very funny mike...aaaaahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
tomorrow is the day!!!!!!!!!MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ordered an MBX5T from Al's hobbyshop. Had alot of store credit so it did'nt kill me. Got it for $430 plus tax for the standard version. Couple xtras coming from amain also.
Rob,
I have not run mine, but the regular version is pretty sweet out of the box. The hinge pins are fine, and the captured nuts (prospect) are just so you dont have to deal with those pesky e clips. Save a fuel filter, since you dont get one. The rear uprights are nice to have in aluminum, but Mugen plastic is high quality so I doubt there will be any issues with the plastic ones.
Another note I would not pay anyone to paint the stock body it is super cheap and thin, I went with a J concepts.
I have a stocker coming. It will last. Maybe not as long as a proline or JC body. But they do last.
Well mine must of been made thinner, LOL
Because I could actually just tear the lexan, and my exacto wouldnt score it it just wanted to go threw it. So like I said I have not run mine, but by past experience I would drop a 50+ dollar paint job on it. But thats just my opinion
Oh I agree. A $50+ paintjob is kinda stupid. But it is not at thin as the TTR ST-1 body! LOL.
But I have seen others and they do seem to hold up somewhat well. Then again,if your someone that is on their lid all the time. Nothing will hold up long
ya that body is a real POS
stocker holding up fine on mine.
I just cut down those screws on mine. So the body shouldnt poke holes anymore.
Thanks for the info. What diff oil for LH inside? My LSP was 7f 20m 3r. Shock 40f 35r? LMK what works for you guys. Thanks Rob
7,10,3. 400,350, 1.5 pistons all around. rest pretty close to stock.
7-10-2 #400 1.4 pistons(stock)
What do you guys think of this setup?
Front:
shock oil...............Mugen 400
shock piston............1.5
spring..................Red
shock loc...............In one hole from middle hole in on tower, middle hole on arm
sway bar................2.7
ride height..............7mm clips
ackerman pos............Front
caster..................1mm in front, 3mm in back
camber..................-2 degrees
toe out.................1 degree
upper arm pos...........upper insert on tower, upper in rear
front arm pos...........2 mm washer in front
front hingepin plate....0 degree hingeplate
lower arm mount.........-1 degree
track...................364
diff....................Mugen 5000 (two gaskets and no small orings)
chassis brace...........Plastic
center
diff.............Mugen 10000 (two gaskets and no small orings)
brakes...........40f/60r bias, TTR Option discs and doubled up calipers
clutch...........Mugen alum shoes, 1.0 spring
gearing..........stock
Rear
shock Oil..............Mugen 350
shock piston...........1.5
spring...........Red
shock loc........In one hole from middle hole in on tower, middle hole on arm
sway bar.........3.0
ride height.......7mm clips
rear hub.........aluminum
rear hub pos.....lower hole
wheel base.......short
camber links.....Middle inner hole on tower, upper inner hole on aluminum hub (upper outer on plastic hubs)
camber...........-2.5 degrees
toe in...........2.25 degrees
antisquat........middle insert
diff.............Mugen 3000 (two gaskets and no small orings)
chassis brace....Plastic
DIALED.....same as mine except for 1 or 2 little things. make sure to fill the diffs to the top so fluid comes out when u cap them.
my kit came today, I got MT's, and the foams seem to be very dry/brittle, they dont even fill out the tire, they seem flat........these foams are horrible!!!!!!!!!!!
white................they are absolutely horrible, Im calling mugen tomorrow and asking for some new ones, they are like smashed to death, I cant see them coming back to actual contour they need to be.
use a blow dryer to them they will come back. They are all like that because they are shipped folded inside the tire.
yeah, but they are all discolored like a yellow tint, and they just feel flakey dry, I dont think I should use them.
newsflash:
thx for tip George, that helped with bringing them to good shape, but what about the dryness/discoloration? is that normal?
Why over fill? Wouldnt that just make them leak? Just a hair over the pins will do, no? Next your going to tell me to bleed the air out for better action...
chickenfarmer3 Wrote:DIALED.....same as mine except for 1 or 2 little things. make sure to fill the diffs to the top so fluid comes out when u cap them.
not sure but when i dont fill to the top seems like fluid breaks down faster and leaks out...then truck goes to sh!t.
the more ur fill it the easier it is for it to leak out, just enough to cover the cross pins.
the yellowness on the foams is a mold release agent that they use when taking the tire out of the mold, this is the shit that makes the glue not stick if u dont clean ur tires first
