Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

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#1
OK....I bought new hubs, and have successfully dismantled the old components. The issues that I am facing are that I am able to get the bearing closest to the hex inserted to the new hub, but I cannot get the bearing inside the hub inserted....it is just a hair too tight. What tricks do you all know of to get the bearing inserted??? I have destroyed 2 bearings already in my attempts. Any advice would be appreciated. BTW I am doing this to a Cen Matrix.
Jeep_Guy (a.k.a Xirtic)
*CEN Matrix Buggy (Brushless)
*Duratrax Warhead EVO (Brushless)
*Axial AX10 Crawler (Brushless)
*RC18T (Brushless)
Reply
#1
OK....I bought new hubs, and have successfully dismantled the old components. The issues that I am facing are that I am able to get the bearing closest to the hex inserted to the new hub, but I cannot get the bearing inside the hub inserted....it is just a hair too tight. What tricks do you all know of to get the bearing inserted??? I have destroyed 2 bearings already in my attempts. Any advice would be appreciated. BTW I am doing this to a Cen Matrix.
Jeep_Guy (a.k.a Xirtic)
*CEN Matrix Buggy (Brushless)
*Duratrax Warhead EVO (Brushless)
*Axial AX10 Crawler (Brushless)
*RC18T (Brushless)
Reply
#2
So, are they stock replacement hubs? They should fit fine. if you are going to press them on. use something flat to put as much surface area on the bearing as possible. on my revo I just used my fingers but I am an ogre, so you may have to do something else. Smile
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#2
So, are they stock replacement hubs? They should fit fine. if you are going to press them on. use something flat to put as much surface area on the bearing as possible. on my revo I just used my fingers but I am an ogre, so you may have to do something else. Smile
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#3
Yeah definately tap it in with something flat and larger than the bearing so you don't ruin another.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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#3
Yeah definately tap it in with something flat and larger than the bearing so you don't ruin another.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
Reply
#4
I usually throw some grease on the outer bearing then tap it with something like a mallot or something else soft.
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#4
I usually throw some grease on the outer bearing then tap it with something like a mallot or something else soft.
Reply
#5
yeah a mallet on a piece of wood would probably be your best bet.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#5
yeah a mallet on a piece of wood would probably be your best bet.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#6
Guys, Thanks.

I was upgrading from the stock ones to new CNC ones. I ran over to HOBBYTOWN in Schaumburg and bought 2 new packages of bearings...then tried again. I have done bearings in the past on rollerblades, so I knew to keep as much surface area of my "pressing" tool on the bearing, and that a screwdriver would just gouge the bearing. So I ended up using a deep well socket to press the bearings.

Here is what finally let me insert the inner bearing:
I boiled a pot of water on HIGH and let the hub come up to temp with the water. I then pulled it out quickly with long channel locks, and popped the bearing in VERY quickly before the metal cooled and shrank back to its original size. This worked PERFECTLY.

Thank goodness that this is winter....and there is no rush to get things fixed. I am just enjoying having the time to do the upgrades that I want before spring. Thanks again for your help/input. I am sure that I will pose more questions soon.
Jeep_Guy (a.k.a Xirtic)
*CEN Matrix Buggy (Brushless)
*Duratrax Warhead EVO (Brushless)
*Axial AX10 Crawler (Brushless)
*RC18T (Brushless)
Reply
#6
Guys, Thanks.

I was upgrading from the stock ones to new CNC ones. I ran over to HOBBYTOWN in Schaumburg and bought 2 new packages of bearings...then tried again. I have done bearings in the past on rollerblades, so I knew to keep as much surface area of my "pressing" tool on the bearing, and that a screwdriver would just gouge the bearing. So I ended up using a deep well socket to press the bearings.

Here is what finally let me insert the inner bearing:
I boiled a pot of water on HIGH and let the hub come up to temp with the water. I then pulled it out quickly with long channel locks, and popped the bearing in VERY quickly before the metal cooled and shrank back to its original size. This worked PERFECTLY.

Thank goodness that this is winter....and there is no rush to get things fixed. I am just enjoying having the time to do the upgrades that I want before spring. Thanks again for your help/input. I am sure that I will pose more questions soon.
Jeep_Guy (a.k.a Xirtic)
*CEN Matrix Buggy (Brushless)
*Duratrax Warhead EVO (Brushless)
*Axial AX10 Crawler (Brushless)
*RC18T (Brushless)
Reply
#7
Jeep_Guy Wrote:Guys, Thanks.

I was upgrading from the stock ones to new CNC ones. I ran over to HOBBYTOWN in Schaumburg and bought 2 new packages of bearings...then tried again. I have done bearings in the past on rollerblades, so I knew to keep as much surface area of my "pressing" tool on the bearing, and that a screwdriver would just gouge the bearing. So I ended up using a deep well socket to press the bearings.

Here is what finally let me insert the inner bearing:
I boiled a pot of water on HIGH and let the hub come up to temp with the water. I then pulled it out quickly with long channel locks, and popped the bearing in VERY quickly before the metal cooled and shrank back to its original size. This worked PERFECTLY.

Thank goodness that this is winter....and there is no rush to get things fixed. I am just enjoying having the time to do the upgrades that I want before spring. Thanks again for your help/input. I am sure that I will pose more questions soon.

For next time, just a reminder, if one side gos in a little bit more than the rest take it out, theyre alot harder to get in when theyre sideways.
Reply
#7
Jeep_Guy Wrote:Guys, Thanks.

I was upgrading from the stock ones to new CNC ones. I ran over to HOBBYTOWN in Schaumburg and bought 2 new packages of bearings...then tried again. I have done bearings in the past on rollerblades, so I knew to keep as much surface area of my "pressing" tool on the bearing, and that a screwdriver would just gouge the bearing. So I ended up using a deep well socket to press the bearings.

Here is what finally let me insert the inner bearing:
I boiled a pot of water on HIGH and let the hub come up to temp with the water. I then pulled it out quickly with long channel locks, and popped the bearing in VERY quickly before the metal cooled and shrank back to its original size. This worked PERFECTLY.

Thank goodness that this is winter....and there is no rush to get things fixed. I am just enjoying having the time to do the upgrades that I want before spring. Thanks again for your help/input. I am sure that I will pose more questions soon.

For next time, just a reminder, if one side gos in a little bit more than the rest take it out, theyre alot harder to get in when theyre sideways.
Reply
#8
lol, I hate press in bearings...but at work we don't torch wheel hubs to heat them up. But good thinking, gotta say that.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#8
lol, I hate press in bearings...but at work we don't torch wheel hubs to heat them up. But good thinking, gotta say that.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#9
IF I remember my College Physics of Conduction & Convection Class correctly (Mind you that I took that class in 1989), When I may need to remove the bearings, the same method should work as well. Since aluminum heats faster than steel, and will hence expand faster, I should be able to pop out the steel bearings when the aluminum part expands.

I boiled instead of a torch so that I would not scorch the very nice anodizing on the new hubs....torch would have been faster....but not as nice end product.

J-Dub:
What do you do that would allow you to use a torch at work? That sounds like a fun part of a job. I spend all day in an office and some torch time might be a way to break up the day.
Jeep_Guy (a.k.a Xirtic)
*CEN Matrix Buggy (Brushless)
*Duratrax Warhead EVO (Brushless)
*Axial AX10 Crawler (Brushless)
*RC18T (Brushless)
Reply
#9
IF I remember my College Physics of Conduction & Convection Class correctly (Mind you that I took that class in 1989), When I may need to remove the bearings, the same method should work as well. Since aluminum heats faster than steel, and will hence expand faster, I should be able to pop out the steel bearings when the aluminum part expands.

I boiled instead of a torch so that I would not scorch the very nice anodizing on the new hubs....torch would have been faster....but not as nice end product.

J-Dub:
What do you do that would allow you to use a torch at work? That sounds like a fun part of a job. I spend all day in an office and some torch time might be a way to break up the day.
Jeep_Guy (a.k.a Xirtic)
*CEN Matrix Buggy (Brushless)
*Duratrax Warhead EVO (Brushless)
*Axial AX10 Crawler (Brushless)
*RC18T (Brushless)
Reply
#10
anything that needs to be cut, or heated. I work in an auto shop. so exhaust, frozen bolts. etc.

can't really torch a press in bearing because it will fatigue the stuff and cause more problems. Gotta torch GM U-Joints cause they fill the yokes with a gayass plastic that you gotta torch to get the old ujoints out. Lol
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#10
anything that needs to be cut, or heated. I work in an auto shop. so exhaust, frozen bolts. etc.

can't really torch a press in bearing because it will fatigue the stuff and cause more problems. Gotta torch GM U-Joints cause they fill the yokes with a gayass plastic that you gotta torch to get the old ujoints out. Lol
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
Reply
#11
You can heat the hub to expand it a little and insert the bearing while it is still warm.
Reply
#11
You can heat the hub to expand it a little and insert the bearing while it is still warm.
Reply


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