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Jammin X1 CRT fiber brake discs
#1
I really loved having a really fast throttle servo in my buggy. I was however disappointed when I used the same servo in the CRT. I was aware that Cradock/fiber disk systems required a good servo. I went out and picked up an Airtronics 358 and installed it. The stopping power is much better now, but it still doesn't have the power to lock up the wheels on high traction surfaces like the aramid pad/steel disc setups were able to do. Unless I decrease the end point, the servo will stop at its limit possibly burning out the motor/amplifier board. It's simply not strong enough yet. Short of getting another yet slower, and stronger servo, I was thinking about scuffing up the discs and the pads with some 320 grit paper.

I also considered moving the point where the brake linkage set attaches to the servo horn inward, decreasing the radius and increasing torque. I don't have the proper parts to do that.

I ordered another set of brake discs (#40666) and another set of pads (#36660) and going with a quad brake setup. Unfortunately, the discs won't be in stock for 2 to 4 weeks: unacceptable when I need to be at LHR in a few days. Has anyone had experience with this type of brake system?
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#2
I use Craddock type brakes on my XB8 and love'um. You sure you got the spacing between the pad and disc right ? I had to set my EPA to almost 45 to get the car from locking up when toughing the brake.
I've got about 3 gallons on the current disc.
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#3
snakebite46 Wrote:I use Craddock type brakes on my XB8 and love'um. You sure you got the spacing between the pad and disc right ? I had to set my EPA to almost 45 to get the car from locking up when toughing the brake.

The spacing is good. I tighten the screw holding the pads just to the point where it gives resistance, and them back off a half turn. Maybe craddocks are different than fiberglass (garolite/phenolic) discs that are on this car. You aren't using any brake pad liners, as you're not supposed to with fiber discs, right? You must have a pretty strong servo for tr/brake then...
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#4
Throttle brake is a air 360z. No brake pads just the metal pad minus the material. I have a .5mm gap set with a brake bias of 60/40.
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#5
if anything with the craddocks u would need a weaker servo, as they provide prolly the best stopping ppower out there. I would check the other components of the linkage before trying different servos/different breaks. do u have the stoppers on the break linkage just touching the brake levers? it may seem like ur on full break, but if ur linkage is messed up u wont have any
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#6
It seems that I had foolishly assumed that craddocks were similar if not the same as typical fiberglass/garolite discs. After talking to some other people today, I've learned that the brakes I have are like this and that a quad setup will make for better 'panic stops'. I'm certain that the linkages are set up right. I'll manage for now though. I haven't gotten used to the truggy yet...
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#7
I barely run any brakes at all, I don't want my truck to be able to lock them up. Me having a higher center of gravity then makes for a see-saw effect when that happens. I've seen some crt's lifting the rear on hard breaks too... (via matt gosch)
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#8
I put craddocks in my lsp and run a 180 oz. servo and before i set them right i could endo my lsp going into a turn at the end of a straight
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#9
I've checked everything. Apparently, craddocks are not like fiberglass discs. The craddocks have super bite. For the heck of it, I ordered both types of discs from Carolina's RC. They had the best price so far. I'll see what they are like for myself.
I have one final question now. Which side of the cam goes toward the brake pad? (see image).

[Image: brakecam.jpg]
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#10
Just a guess but I bet the left side of the pic goes towards the disc.
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#11
My guess is the right.
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#12
50/50 chance..... hehehe
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#13
LOL.... Reason behind me saying the right side.

From the at least it looks like the right side has a larger eccentric on it. Therefore, giving it more brakes when fully applied.
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#14
I guess I'll put the front cam in the way tex described, and the rear cam the way snakebite4 recommended. Smile
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#15
Blackwolf, how are the linkages hooked up to the levers for the brakes ? Does Jammin use or recommend fuel tubing to adjust the brakes or do they have springs there ?

The XB8 uses fuel tubing to fine tune the brakes and I didnt like the set-up at all. I went and got Kyosho K2-K3 linkage which uses springs and made a world of difference when setting up the brakes. Biggest noticeable difference was the stopping power.
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#16
I think left side because as the cam turns the flat part makes full contact with whatever is used to compress the pads to the disc...... although now after thinking back over that system it wouldn't work all that well as the center protrudes further and that would cause more breaking when it's supposed to be at neutral.......or something
Mugen MBX5T
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#17
The cam itself makes contact with the brake pad. so in that picture, the flat parts are what front/ rear are positions in neutral. You can also see where the levers go in (barely), in that picture.
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#18
Yeah I'm not an 1/8 scale master like you.....j/k

Listen to Rich! I only know t-maxxs and revos......lmao
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#19
LOL Gabe, I'm no master...
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#20
BlackWolf, Is that picture from the manual? Not to sure how the cam goes in, but usaully theres a flat part that goes towards the brake disc. As for the craddocks, they are great brake discs and really dont need the strongest and fastest servo to get performance. A futaba 9350 puts out only 143oz/in torque at 6v and works great for the throttle/brake duties. I run craddocks doubled up, meaning i glue 2 together, so they are thicker and hold up longer. You really dont want to have your brakes locking up on you either as it takes too long to stop and can push in corners or spin you out. Scuff up the disks and calipers a little with some fine grit form time to time.
T-T-T Confusedalute:
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#21
snakebite46 Wrote:Blackwolf, how are the linkages hooked up to the levers for the brakes ? Does Jammin use or recommend fuel tubing to adjust the brakes or do they have springs there ?

The XB8 uses fuel tubing to fine tune the brakes and I didnt like the set-up at all. I went and got Kyosho K2-K3 linkage which uses springs and made a world of difference when setting up the brakes. Biggest noticeable difference was the stopping power.

It uses fuel tubing. I was thinking about getting one of those Dynamite linkage sets. I've had one on all of my vehicles. I would like to use springs instead, they're more linear and don't deteriorate.

Springs come with it instead of fuel tubing - this is a pic of an older revision

[Image: DYN2568-250.jpg]

Hagasan: I'm going to experiment with the extra fiberglass disc for each side and with craddocks. Something tells me that I'm going to like the craddocks better and I'll be able to go to a weaker/faster (airtronics 360) servo. Everyone, please forgive me for sounding like a dummy as I'm new to monster trucks.

Just for grins, I put my buggy wheels on the trug. I was able to stop fast, really fast then, but that was to be expected. It was really funny to see though; laughing, milk came out of my nose and I wasn't even drinking milk...
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#22
Anybody know...Which are the better of the two for a Sp2?
[Image: advc011.jpg]
[Image: advc013.jpg]Anti-lock
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#23
I personally perfer the regular ones....
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#24
you have an SP2?

j/k roc
Mugen MBX5T
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Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#25
jammin, sp2 ttr... apples to apples...
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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