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+--- Thread: Engine Disassembly (/thread-5663.html)
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Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-11-2007
How do I get these 3 shoe cluth out and the piston sleeve?
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-11-2007
for the clutch use a flat head to get behind the spring and pop it outta the slot. for the P/S take the head off and take zip tie and slide it through the exhaust port out the top and turn the motor over until it raises up the sleeve then back down the piston pull out the zip tie and pull out the sleeve
Engine Disassembly - Ponch - 01-11-2007
To remove the piston and sleeve.
Clean the outside of the engine with a brush so nothing gets in while you have it apart.
Remove the head (watch for shims too) and the various backplates until you can see the engine's internals. (might be 1, not sure if there's a pull start or what on there too)
Fold a thick zip tie in half. Put it in the exhaust port with the piston at BDC (bottom).
Turn the flywheel by hand. The piston should push into the zip tie, pushing the sleeve up.
Carefully go around the sleeve with a flathead and pry it up GENTLY.
Now take a pair of non toothed pliers or pliers with a rag around them and pull on the connecting rod. Note the direction of the piston in the case.
Now take off the clutch. You can do this 2 ways;
A-Clutch shoe remover
B-Flathead screwdrivers
A is the easiest for the 3 shoe clutches but I'll bet $20 you don't have one, so...
B-Take a flathead and pry up the shoe from the front of the engine. Take another one and push the shoe away from the flywheel. It should slide with some pressure. Watch out for the spring, it might shoot off but I've never had that happen. Do that to all 3 shoes. Then take an old screwdriver with a plasic handle and hit the flywheel from the back to pop it off of the crankshaft. Remove the (usually) brass cone and you're done.
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-11-2007
didnt i just say that? and dont use pliars to take the rod off the crank just use ur fingers it just slides off
Engine Disassembly - Ponch - 01-11-2007
Yeah I was typing more so....it took me longer. idk.
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-11-2007
Thanks guys, I got it. But I just found this little spring on the table? What the hell is this to. Its tiny spring, circle, and its the size of the backplate screw.
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-11-2007
couldnt tell ya
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-11-2007
sucks when people jump on ur chit for no reason dont it ponch
lol
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-11-2007
LOL Big Blocks have a pin in the connecting rod and a spring. Yes engine assembled again!
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-11-2007
uhhhhh i think that is one of the c clips that holds the wrist pin to the piston the rod u better get that back on there
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-11-2007
Yea thats what I was saying.
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-11-2007
thats not just in big blocks bud
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-12-2007
Wait, what? I never emember the OS engines or TRX or anything ever having these?
But I think ur talking of something different.
I meant: there is a hole in the bottem of the connecting rod. S spring goes in it, then a small metal shaft that catchs the starter when spinning. Maybe your thinking of something else. Or im just out of it Lol.
Engine Disassembly - kevinF - 01-12-2007
if you ever have to do it again heat up the piston and sleeve, thatll make it slide out like butter. just easier when you do it the next time
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-12-2007
O thanks for the tip, yea that was hard to get out!
Engine Disassembly - Tex - 01-12-2007
wouldn't heating it up make it expand and come out harder? freezing it would let it slide out easier since it shrinks is what my theory is
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-12-2007
the problem with either is that the brass is gonna change faster than the aluminum case. heating wont help unless u can isolate the heat to the case, same goes for freezing. the only thing i can see the heat doin is maybe melting any of the dried oil around the sleeve, which there shouldnt be lol
Engine Disassembly - FreeRideFrosty - 01-12-2007
If you heat up the block it is supposed to make it easier. I did it when pulling my 2.5 apart. If you just warm it a bit it doesn't heat the sleeve enough to expand it much. At least that is my experience....
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-12-2007
I think we have an unsolved problem on our hands? And Tex, thats the same thing I thought, heat expands, cold shrinks. The ballon in the freezer says the same thing, but IDK maybe the engines are different, I wouldn't think so.
Engine Disassembly - FreeRideFrosty - 01-12-2007
You want the block to expand and the sleeve to shrink. So.... either heat the case or cool the sleeve. In this case it is easier to heat the case.
Engine Disassembly - Rawkfist_02 - 01-12-2007
I see what ur saying.
Engine Disassembly - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 01-12-2007
like if ur doing a bearing change with out the tool, u heat the case to about 350 in the oven with the bearing in the freezer for about 15 minutes, drop the cold bearing in the hot case and it seats tight
Engine Disassembly - maxximum_44 - 01-12-2007
Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:like if ur doing a bearing change with out the tool, u heat the case to about 350 in the oven with the bearing in the freezer for about 15 minutes, drop the cold bearing in the hot case and it seats tight
I might do that with the vspec...
Engine Disassembly - Tex - 01-12-2007
you don't even need to put the bearing in the freezer, just the block in the oven at 350 for 10 mins
Engine Disassembly - Astro - 01-12-2007
You should have called me coop, I could have helped ya, you know my # and where I live, don't hesitate to ask for help.
