Can someone hook me up with a good set up sheet for Leisure hours indoor track? I'll be running the switch clays. I know there is a long thread but I was hoping for a setup sheet I could print. Thanks!
I obviously don't run the Mugen but I've taken the time to read the whole "long thread" as you call it.
BTW Bueller, take a lookie at post #269 by allan42r..........
I have the sheet but i dont have a scanner, i can take a pic of it if ya want.
indoor setups for the r: 5 7 2 if the track is high bite 4 7 1 this will give the car more steering better rotation. liked the 2.3 front bar with no preload and the 2.8 rear bar with a 1/4" of preload. lower front arms middle, upper arms 1mm spacer in front. rear arms foward, hubs middle and lower hole, 2deg of antisquat and the rear 0 2.75 plate, if high bite switch to a 2.5 toe block.
long grey springs 9 spacer in front and 8 in the rear. 400wt front and 350 rear, this is not 40/35.. odeg kickup, middle hole on ackerman plate,lower hole on the tower for the front upper a arm. inner middle hole on rear tower for the camer link and outer on the hub.
for the t: 7 10 3 . front bar 2.5 with 1/4" preload and 2.9 rear with 1/8" preload. arms in the middle. front ackerman hole on steering plate,-1 kickup block. upper hole on tower for front a arm mount on the rear hubs middle lower hole. camber rod inner middle hole on tower outer on hub. 3 deg of antisquat( upper hole) with a 0 2.75 rear block. red springs 450wt with the black 1.5 pistons. switches with molded foam i now alot of you like the boas but that tire has way too much bite and it wont let the truck rotate in the middle of the corner for me, if you want a more planted feel then try the boas but they are slower.
set both ride heights bones level full of fuel ready for the track. stock gearing,clutches,springs. the droop is very important on the way the car/truck handles corners and jumps. i run more outdoors as soon as i take some measurements i'll post them for you all. back at the track next weekend
rob....throw that 48t spur on there and hang on! lol
Thanks Rob thats good info. Would the 48t spur be worth it? I hear it gives alot more snap but would it run outta legs on top?
The setup i posted was an old setup allan42r posted that i pasted here. I found out last night they are running a different setup so maybe one of those dudes can post it here to help us out.
I like the 48 spur and it still has plenty on top. I'm runnin a stock VG so my bottom is alittle soft anyway. Vspecs didnt seem any faster on the back straight last night.
I used the same setup on the new layout as on the old, but then again i also used the same outdoor setup as i did indoor with the truggy ;]
Lol, I'd hate to buy stuff for a fresh kit just to get it setup.
So...The toe blocks confuse me... 2 degrees of anti-squat is the -2 / 2.50 block right? hopefully someone replies otherwise IDK wtf im doing lol.
C'mon Dub. The toe block is the rear susp block all the in the back of the buggy that holde the hing pins dude. You want to use the 2.5 rear toe block. Prob 2deg antisquat which i believe is the mid pos on the front block on the rear diff that holds the hinge pins.
Lol. dude my knowledge is limited to REVO. I figured it out, but all the "kick up, anti-squat' stuff is new to me, so I wasnt sure what number meant what and + or -. basicly didnt want to waste my time putting the wrong block in there. seeing as how im building a fresh kit I'd rather not have to have a pain in the ass later LOL
for the record I stay away from home too much. Im hardly done nputting it together...I dont have an engine though so its all good.
It's cool. Dont worry about puttin in the wrong block. Takes a few minutes to change. Much quicker and easier than the Revo.
I have a few engines i will sell cheap. You can even try em out before you buy. PM me if youre interested.