ChitownRC

It seemed for a long time the Savage right out of the box was the most durable MT around. I was just curious if the Revo is better now or?

I dont know if you would call it that... seems as though I am constantly replacing parts on my Savage. Shocks, Differentials, A-arms, etc.., etc..

But then again my Savage is the only MT I have owned, so if it is the most durable, Im glad I didnt go with anything else, I'd be poor by now.

The Revo is quite durable, but I think overall, the Savage holds it's own a LITTLE better when it comes to HARD bashing...

When I got my Savage in a trade, I didn't even go through it completely (Checking for loose/missing screws, broken parts, etc...) on the first day running it, I was jumping it 20-30 feet in the air off a skatepark ramp. The only casualties were the Pipe coming loose from the Exhaust coupler, and the air filter popped off once. See video here. In STOCK form, the Savage is VERY durable. Once you start upgrading to aftermarket parts, you can sacrafice some durability.

If you are getting a NEW savage, try to make sure that you get the one which has the 4-spider Diffs. The 2-spider diffs are/were the weak spot on a Savage, but with the Stock .25, I ran my first Savage for 6 months before I traded it, and never had a problem with the diffs.

On the rear turnbuckles, the tie rod ends like to pop off the Ball cups, with some HARD bashing. this can be prevented, by adding a washer to the Ball joint preventing the end from popping off.

When I asked here for a clear winner between Savage and Revo, the votes were Revo for racing, Savage for bashing, and mostly because the Savage was less money to start, so if you're only gonna bash, why bash a more costly truck?

I have been 100% happy with the Revo. No repairs of any kind with LOTS of hours on it. Not racing it yet, but not beating it to death on bashing runs either.

The other comments here said the Revo was easier to work on than the Savage. I haven't had the Revo apart to rebuild a diff yet, but you can clearly see that they come out easy.

AND, if you don't plan to get TOO serious about things, the Revo has the press-n-play EZ Start! Way better than pull start or RotoStart, IMO. Racers take all that stuff off for starter box use, but then you have to haul a starter box around everywhere you run.

As my wife would say... "How much is it going to cost to run that thing today?"

My reply... "Lets see what brakes and I'll give you a total later."

Hands down the savy is the most durable!

I went two years on the same arms and diffs (two spider!!!) Shock towers, body mount posts, upper arms and 2 c hubs and uprights are original and STILL going Strong!!!!

he only reason i replaced the arms is because the shock mount holes finally stripped out!!!!

The savage comes with a roto start right? I wish there were some combination of roto start/pull start. It's nice to use the roto start to get it going first but once it's warmed up and just cuts out for no reason its a pain to carry it all the way back to where your roto start is.

Starter box and a pull start?

edit: sorry, there should have been a question mark at the end of that question

You Cant starter box a savage, its not designed that way.... The MGT has a combo/roto start.... Two one ways and many other parts to go bad if you ask me..

Gimme a pullstarter over roto crap any day!!!

I need to get a starter box for my Mayhem. I wonder if the Savage is more durable than the Hot Bodies Lightning GT?

Quote:I wonder if the Savage is more durable than the Hot Bodies Lightning GT?

Yes, it is more durable. The Lightning GT is a race truck, where the Savage is a BASHER.

he gt Is the mt version of the lightning stadium..... Id get a savage for bashing

I was just looking at the fact that they say the GT's frame is made of 7071 aluminum unless that's common.

It supposed to be a high quality chassis but a few guys on this board have the lightning stadium truck and we find that without extra custom bracing there is still alittle too much flex in the cb/spur area....