Does anyone have an experience with the Jet computer chips for 1:1 cars/trucks? I just got my backorder in from summit racing and was curious if anyone here has any experience with it and can tell me what to expect from it.
This is the one I got
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...toview=sku
I would check on a 1:1 forum for more opinions also. just a suggestion
Mich-
Ive only used diablo chips in my fords... Seem to work well
What kind of car (make/model/engine?)
ford ranger, 3.0L, 5 speed 4wd. I should have my chip probly tuesday.
Sorry, I can't help. I've worked on 5.0 rangers, 5.0, 5.8, 4.6 Mustangs, 4.6, 5.0, 5.4, 5.8, and 7.4 Trucks. Also Cobras and Lightenings (all generations) even a 4.0 & 5.0 Explorer and a SHO taurus but never a 3.0 Ranger.
Both Jet and Superchips seem to work pretty well in my experience so good luck with it. Tell us what you think of the chip once you get it installed.
most people have never seen an engine as small as mine lol. Its got cold air, electric fan, flowmaster, now a chip. Soon it will have new centerforce clutch, maybe headers.
What year is it? Any pics to share?
93, no pics right now. Nothing really to show. Besides what i mentioned above it only has 31 inch tires upgraded.
You should put your money into something other than a '93 Ranger 3.0
That's like hopping up a '93 OFNA buggy to try and make it "worthy"
Not trying to make it worthy, just get it a little better then stock. After I get my new clutch thats probly gonna be it mechanically wise. As of right now with what ive done I get around 30mpg city so im very happy with what ive done so far. This chip should allow me another 1-2mpg more. Besides im getting a sportbike probly in february so im not gonna be spending a lot of money here.
Tex Wrote:That's like hopping up a '93 OFNA buggy to try and make it "worthy"
:bustingup
Michowski Wrote:most people have never seen an engine as small as mine lol. Its got cold air, electric fan, flowmaster, now a chip. Soon it will have new centerforce clutch, maybe headers.
GO COLD AIR!!!!
lap: That 2 hp must feel really good!! j/f/w/y. Let me know how that chip works out for you,might be interested to try it out!
Also Procharged5.0 do you have any connections with a Ford dealer or are you a mechanic? Could use some help with my 91 exploder!
This is going to be really blunt, but I'm not exactly one to skirt around this subject.
You just wasted $230. I would have done a cat-back, put the money towards headers, or anything else. Hell, $230 would be great towards a mild nitrous kit and would give you way more power than the chip will. A good dyno tune will cost you about $300 to $400 depending on how much time they need to spend on the dyno and will net more power than any standardized chip would. If your car was modded you'd gain quite a bit more power.
When my TransAm finally gets the LT1 in there, its going for a Dyno tune through MadZ28.com. $300 with dyno time and he's considered by the F-body community to be one of the best local guys to go to for EFI tuning.
No mention of pulleys? Those will give you more bang for your buck than anything you've listed so far.
Squirrel,
No connections with Ford other than a few friends who work at a dealership.
I've been racing Fords for over 15 years and Mopars for over 20. Just lots of varied experience building, repairing, fabricating, etc.
Yes and no, If its a forced induction motor a pulley is REALLY good. If its a N/A motor then it really doesn't net all that much.
I'm not a big fan of under drive pullies on daily driven cars. Puts too much stress on the alternator, as well as less coolant flow. If you get stuck in traffic I'd rather have good flow through the radiator and a strong alternator to keep the AC workin good. If it were a street/strip car where it really wasn't driven all that much, and spent alot of time at the track I'd go with underdrive pullies too.
If the car is undercammed then and the heads can support the flow then higher ratio rockers are also a good mod. Had 1.6RR's on my small block. .530"/.560" lift on a 211/219 duration cam. Idled perfect at 500rpm all day long. Couldn't even tell the car was cammed. Modeled my build up after a Lingenfelter TPI motor.
I forgot to add I got new 15lb injectors which was upgraded from stock.
Procharged5.0 Wrote:Squirrel,
No connections with Ford other than a few friends who work at a dealership.
I've been racing Fords for over 15 years and Mopars for over 20. Just lots of varied experience building, repairing, fabricating, etc.
Damn!!! I need many parts for my explorer and non of them are available and can't get these parts from a junkyard! Thanks anyways!
I know it sucks, but a Ford Dealership would be your best bet if you can't get them at a parts store. Though you might pay through the nose to get them.
The parts I need are no longer kept in stock, or around period!! I need a COMPLETE wiring harness, and an IAC. Other than those 2 things the truck is great besides a little body work(ok lots!!!!). The motor is perfect, I can rip the tires lose through 2nd gear. Just need thoughs parts to get it running better.
Thirdgen89GTA Wrote:Yes and no, If its a forced induction motor a pulley is REALLY good. If its a N/A motor then it really doesn't net all that much.
I'm not a big fan of under drive pullies on daily driven cars. Puts too much stress on the alternator, as well as less coolant flow. If you get stuck in traffic I'd rather have good flow through the radiator and a strong alternator to keep the AC workin good. If it were a street/strip car where it really wasn't driven all that much, and spent alot of time at the track I'd go with underdrive pullies too.
If the car is undercammed then and the heads can support the flow then higher ratio rockers are also a good mod. Had 1.6RR's on my small block. .530"/.560" lift on a 211/219 duration cam. Idled perfect at 500rpm all day long. Couldn't even tell the car was cammed. Modeled my build up after a Lingenfelter TPI motor.
Not sure about T/A's, but worked well on all my mustangs. One time, one the dyno, we took off the belt completely for one pass just see how much power the accesseries were robbing. This was on a '93 5speed Mustang GT. We picked up 37HP to the tire by taking off the belt!! Underdriving the pulleys didn't do me any harm in that car or the cobra I had after that. They were a great purchase IMO.
Thirdgen89GTA Wrote:Yes and no, If its a forced induction motor a pulley is REALLY good. If its a N/A motor then it really doesn't net all that much.
I'm not a big fan of under drive pullies on daily driven cars. Puts too much stress on the alternator, as well as less coolant flow. If you get stuck in traffic I'd rather have good flow through the radiator and a strong alternator to keep the AC workin good. If it were a street/strip car where it really wasn't driven all that much, and spent alot of time at the track I'd go with underdrive pullies too.
If the car is undercammed then and the heads can support the flow then higher ratio rockers are also a good mod. Had 1.6RR's on my small block. .530"/.560" lift on a 211/219 duration cam. Idled perfect at 500rpm all day long. Couldn't even tell the car was cammed. Modeled my build up after a Lingenfelter TPI motor.
Uhhh... with under drive pullies your water pump pully doesnt affect cooling... They are engineered to keep your cooling system work just as well as stock...
Mr. Tune Wrote:Not sure about T/A's, but worked well on all my mustangs. One time, one the dyno, we took off the belt completely for one pass just see how much power the accesseries were robbing. This was on a '93 5speed Mustang GT. We picked up 37HP to the tire by taking off the belt!! Underdriving the pulleys didn't do me any harm in that car or the cobra I had after that. They were a great purchase IMO.
+1
My cobra hasnt had an issue in 3 years of daily driving with them...
so what exactly is an under drive pulley. Were does it go? Whats the point of it.