ChitownRC

which one u recommend? whcih ofra is it?

im not sure which ofna, but you would have to buy the filter neck also..............I would get the motor saver personally, but just put a nylon on just in case

The stock revo filter works just fine IMO.

yeah revo2k but it has to be cleaned every hour and thats just too often.............besides on my maxx the first day i took it out it broke (stock traxxas filter)

yea it is crazy every hour what about the motor saver how often?

when i went racing in the winter I would race 20 hours a month and change it every month or two...................so every gallon or less you should clean it

Indoor was clean racing compared to outside!! There isn't any dust!

Air filters should be cleaned when they get dirty. No matter what filter you choose to use, you should always check it. Filters stay cleaner longer with inside racing, because there is very little dust to clog the filter.

Keep in mind, that as a filter gets dirty, the airflow is reduced, which can cause tuning problems. If you don't clean or swap the dirty filter for a clean one, you will have to re-tune for the restricted airflow. Since the air is restricted, you will have to lean out the engine, which can result in the engine not getting enough oil. Now when you do clean the filter, and start running the truck, it will be TOO lean, and can cause premature engine failure. For the few minutes it takes to clean or change a filter, it is a MUCH better option than dropping a couple hundred dollars on a new engine...

Redzebra, take a look at the air filter when it is new. After every couple tanks, look at it, and see if it is getting dirty. If you notice it is getting pretty dirty, clean it right away. If you are at home, take the filter off the truck, and take apart the filter assembly. Pull the filter out of the housing and wash it with warm soapy water. DON'T push the dirt into the filter. run the water through the filter from the clean side (The side that faces the carb). Make sure to clean the filter housing also. Make sure to dry the filter neck, housing and filter, then coat the filter with Air Filter oil (The bottle of red fluid that came with your Revo) and squeeze the fiter a few times, making sure to completely cover the fiter. Re-assemble the fiter, zip-tie it to the engine and have fun...

good way to say it newguy..............

now that we have that cleared up........ i want to know what i should get to make this a race worthy truck...i know a lot of the upgrades for the revo that would be good for racing, but would like to know what you guys think

I know I already said this, but I'll put it up to see what other people say.

FOC, FM/Spec, Setbacks (maybe??) definately tires, you already ditched the dual servos so that is out of the way and, center diff eventually (maybe??)

to add to traxxas_junkee red pushrods/turnbuckles, lunsford Ti rocker posts, tonys screw kit, rpm arms for the front, rpm knuckles, mugen wing is kinda more of a preference thats pretty much all i can think of...

1. Tires
2. Steering mods for more travel
3. Proper gearing for track conditions
4. Radio
5. Springs and fluids

On the red rod subject....you already spacered the steel rods for the P2's (or it came that way, I guess). If you dont hit stuff, red rods are fine. If you do hit stuff, steel rods will bend before breaking. But they do look better!

6. Setscrews in knuckles to keep pivot ball caps tightened.
7. Personal transponder.
6. Wing for body/engine protection.
7. Remove EZ Start - but you said you wanted it, so it's last here.

DAVEC-NITRO-RS4 Wrote:1. Tires
2. Steering mods for more travel
3. Proper gearing for track conditions
4. Radio
5. Springs and fluids

On the red rod subject....you already spacered the steel rods for the P2's (or it came that way, I guess). If you dont hit stuff, red rods are fine. If you do hit stuff, steel rods will bend before breaking. But they do look better!

6. Setscrews in knuckles to keep pivot ball caps tightened.
7. Personal transponder.
6. Wing for body/engine protection.
7. Remove EZ Start - but you said you wanted it, so it's last here.

I only want it for break in, once i get a half a gallon in in im going to ditch the cheesy start and go to pullstart

hey can i get a link for a wing for the revo? thanks.

also should i boil the wing?

You should probally boil the wing and mount, i did that on my dads set of maxx arms and they have lasted alot longer than when they werent.

I did not boil the mount and it's plenty tough. The wing I boiled because I wanted it dyed anyway, and it helped make it more flexible (TTR wing). The Mugen wings are pretty limber right out of the bag.

Traxxas_Junkee Wrote:You should probally boil the wing and mount, i did that on my dads set of maxx arms and they have lasted alot longer than when they werent.

hmmmmmmmmmm that is prolly because he NEVER DRIVE'S IT

last night he did... slammed into a tree in second gear

lol

nice for the first time in how long?

Hahahahahaha kyle, your dad's retarded sometimes lol...

mugen wing/mount seem to be flexable enough right outta the bag. It was flexable compared to my boiled ofna wing.

RPM axle carriers- don't get from LH. They're overpriced by $10, and when you get 2 sets, that's $20 extra. Stores on ebay have them for about $25 shipped.

ok...thanks

hey I just did the steering mod where you grind down the bump stops and I decided to take the whold bump stop out..... will this ruin anything, or not?

also i have a jr 640 I believe in there so its not the stock servos

i took that out also and run the jr 650 works fine for me

on ebay you pay for shipping so it pretty much evens out most of the time. If we don't support the LHS then they will close up and you won't have anywhere to get anything in a pinch.