03-29-2006, 12:13 PM
03-29-2006, 12:15 PM
Heat cycle.
03-29-2006, 12:15 PM
you should use the heat cycle break in method for any engine. Ive used it on my traxxas engines, os, picco, sirio. It is just IMO the only way to break in a motor for best results. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/artic...cle_id=397
03-29-2006, 01:04 PM
True.....I used the heat cycle break in on my last two engines and their both still running great. Ive got over 4 gallons on my P5x now and it still runs as good as new 
I dont believe in the idle for one whole tank method, that just doesnt sound like a good idea to me.
Letting your engine run pig rich at idle for that long breaks it in all right, it probably makes it nice and loose when your done too LOL.
I dont believe in the idle for one whole tank method, that just doesnt sound like a good idea to me.
Letting your engine run pig rich at idle for that long breaks it in all right, it probably makes it nice and loose when your done too LOL.
03-29-2006, 03:03 PM
well, definetly don't use the traxxas method, my friends motor turned out to be a peace of sh*t after he used their exact method, i've heard tons and tons of people liking the heat cycle, which is what im going to use when i get an x
03-29-2006, 03:05 PM
I cannot fault the Traxxas method. Our Revo runs great.
03-29-2006, 03:30 PM
traxxas method works well. I just prefer the heat cycle because i know it so well.
03-29-2006, 06:41 PM
LOL, the traxxas method is a variant of the heat cycle method. Why would you not trust it? I think it's a great way to break in an engine.
Much better than the "let idle for 1 tank on blocks" type methods.
Much better than the "let idle for 1 tank on blocks" type methods.
03-29-2006, 08:21 PM
I like the Traxxas one, I got 9 Gallons out of my last 2.5 and 7.5 out of another one.
03-29-2006, 08:52 PM
Here's a Cut/Paste that descibes the Heat Cycling....
Engine Tempering & Engine Breakin
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Rick Brake RB Mods
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
Use a MC 59 or the hottest plug you can get and burn 30% nitro. Keep your cool and be patient, It will come in to It’s own after about a gallon of fuel.
Engine Tempering & Engine Breakin
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Rick Brake RB Mods
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
Use a MC 59 or the hottest plug you can get and burn 30% nitro. Keep your cool and be patient, It will come in to It’s own after about a gallon of fuel.
03-29-2006, 09:33 PM
so guys BDC is when the piston and the shaft are all the way down in the bottom of the engine not up top where the plug is>?
03-29-2006, 09:41 PM
SHYCAGO Wrote:so guys BDC is when the piston and the shaft are all the way down in the bottom of the engine not up top where the plug is>?Yes.
03-29-2006, 11:03 PM
I'm planning on taking it easy for 5 tanks, heat cycling in the process with no abrupt blipping of throttle and no FULL speed runs. I will make sure the temps are good (between 200F-300F) and I will gradually give it more throttle each tank. That's my break in method, works everytime and my motors last a long time, tune well and are fast.