ChitownRC

what are the strongest a-arms (top and bottom) not including TI for the revo?
rpm?
is there a stronger driveshaft that leads to the tire, we've already broken 2 of those in about a week
and what is the bar coming fromt he servo to the tire that steers it? cuzz we bent one of those in 4 ways...we can thank a bench for that

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXJCN8&P=7
are thoset he right bars that go in the middle of the shock? we bent one of those too

you guys need to learn how to drive, RPM arms are the best for the money

my friends an idiot...he took it off a ramp and it landed nose-dive on a metal bench
he doesn't have any common sense...i told him not to do it
but NOOOO......

lol

lol.....get the parts numbers too, that helps a lot

i had the part #'s...the page was loading
i just got to them
shock part: 5463 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...VPROFIL=++)
steering turnbuckle: 5338 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXHFZ8&P=7)
suspension arms: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXJXR0&P=7
and
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXJXR0&P=7




anything stronger than any of those parts? (i really really think he NEEDS the strength)
he doesn't want to go TI on the arms b/c they're heavy and once they bend you have to buy a new set

and we had this problem w/ the motor
we'd get it started, be driving around just fine...turn and accelerate and the motor just dies
so we try to start it..try a couple times and it starts
then the same thing with the turning and shutting itself off

anybody know the problem?

thanks sooo much!

Tell him he is crazy on the arms. If he gets a set of flex tek arms he will have them forever. They are ment to give in an impact. As long as you get ti hingepins as swell you re st. They aren't that much heavier either...

And the motor may be rich... it's hard to tell w/o hearing/seeing it though.

Stock arms might be fine when it's not 40* out? Maybe....and if you boil them, they get more flexible. But that will make your handling suffer a bit...
RPM's are good in many ways.

Toe links.....you can get Tubes from Traxxas. Stronger but $$$$$. Just buy lots of spares off ebay from a part out guy. They go cheap.

You can replace the Traxxas driveshafts with MIP cvd shafts.

well, with this accident i don't think that temperature had anything to do with them breaking....full throttle into steel


those cvd's look good, idk if he'll spend that much right now, b/c he already had 1 extra shaft


thanks for the help guys
anybody know the problem w/ the motor shutting off?

Has he flushed out his fuel tank? If I remember correctly, there was a notice about there being plastic filings in some of the fuel tanks that clogged up the filter. I'd take the tank off the truck, but about 1/4 tank of fuel in it, shake the crap out of it and empty it. Then check the fuel lines to see if there's something stuck somewhere. Also, replace the o-ring kit on the tank lid itself. Out of the box, it was prone to having issues as well.

I broke an RPM arm a couple weeks ago... but man, it took a beating up until it broke. The only problem I've had with the RPM arms is that they flex so much that they are breaking my axles on really bad impacts. Like when you case a jump at 3/4 to WOT. The arms bend so far that the axle just snaps at the joint. I bought a full set (including centers) off ebay for $23, so I have spares. But it's something to think about.

It definitly isn't a big enough problem for me to stop running RPM. I'm guessing the same thing would happen with stock arms, except the arms would snap as well. I'd be affraid of running steel cvd's with them though. You will end up bending them.

This is after casing a triple at WOT at a bmx park:



I wrecked about 100 other times that day... that one was the clincher at WOT. I was racing a couple savages with big dog engines in them. They didn't clear the jump either...