ChitownRC

I was browsing a few other forums and I kept seeing that a bunch of guys are running the XXX-NT clutch on the Revos, any one here do that?

1/8 clutch is the way to go IMO. Worth every bit of mods.

OK Tex, you mentioned it, now how do you do it???? LOL

you cut out the chassis in front of the tranny so you have room to move it up.

The crank shaft is long enough for an 1/8 clutch flywheel/bell? Or are you also installing a BB engine and moving the trans forward?

tex has a bb on his revo. to use an 1/8scale clutch, it require him to move the tranny forward. He'll explain further once he chimes in again.

If anyone needs help in moving the trans foreward to accomodadte an 1/8th scale clutch I would be glad to help. Tex tought me well so it is only fair that I pass on the knowledge. :-)

And to make it short you will need to dremel away part of the chassis in front of the trans, the rear of the front shock mount, flip the wire holder around, cut the front driveshaft, and redrill new holes. As tex said... worth the work. Although I sold mine it was a TON of fun to drive... I didn't have the patience to dump the time or money into it to get it handling on the track again for some reason...

FreeRideJunkie Wrote:And to make it short you will need to dremel away part of the chassis in front of the trans, the rear of the front shock mount, flip the wire holder around, cut the front driveshaft, and redrill new holes.

Will an 1/8 scale flywheel/clutch/bell assembly only work on a BB engine? Also, is there anything else you need to do?

I think an 1/8 clutch can work on small blocks also, I've seen it done.

FreeRideJunkie Wrote:And to make it short you will need to dremel away part of the chassis in front of the trans, the rear of the front shock mount, flip the wire holder around, cut the front driveshaft, and redrill new holes.

Do you really need to grind the driveshaft down? Do you need to do anything to the rear drive shaft?

I just had a stock clutch spring break and I have a 3-shoe savage clutch/flywheel laying around. I just made a spacer for half of the outer cb bearing since the shaft was too short, but I'm not sure how much or how far forward I need to move the trans. From what I can tell, I need to move it 1/8"-3/16" (3-4mm) forward to get the spur to stop rubbing on the bell... well, and to line up the spur/cb teeth.

What do you think?

all you can do is try it, mod it as needed, then try again. first cut out the chassis all the way up to the front shock mount (maybe even cut into it a little) spin the servo wire retainer 180 degrees for even more clearance. you also have to cut the notch on the drivers side of the tranny hole further up for clearance. Just start with moving the tranny forward as needed, then worry about the driveshafts later. The small amount you are moving your tranny may not even warrant cutting your drive front drive shaft at all. The back doesn't need cutting no matter how far the tranny is moved forward.

qiuck question....whats the point of putting a 1/8 scale clutch on the revo?

what will it do?

nothing on a small block except NEVER fade and last the life of the motor.

ok thanks.........so then its not really worth it?

IMO on a small block, not really

get the mip clutch and your set. you can easily get 3 gallons or more

traxxas thrasher Wrote:ok thanks.........so then its not really worth it?

I guess it's up to personal opinion. I know with my 18TM, my clutch slips quite a bit with it being stock. I also had a t-maxx a few years back which uses the same clutch as the revo and I was constantly replaceing clutch springs, bells and shoes due to heavy slippage/wear. I've had a savage for the past 2 years and I'm using the original clutch shoes, clutch springs, bell (OFNA hardened) and spur (52T stock). I've run over 16 gallons through that truck with the same clutch. Granted, I run a low power engine (OS 21 RG), but the results speak for themselves.