ChitownRC

If I see ya at the track I'll give ya some pointers on a good line Blackwolf!

Just picture the old track with twice the pit size.

I think he wants to see the layout....He wants to see what lines he is going to try...correct me if I'm wrong

Gabe what's up with this?? Your going to give him line pointers and not me?? Cmon... I'll be running a 2.5 with an air leak in the Trophy race because I didn't manage my money/procrastinated. I need all the help I can get for Saturday. LoL

From what I witnessed it was more traffic than track that caused most problems.

I can give anyone pointers that may need them...Although I'm not that fast myself so I'n not sure you should listen to me....lol

RCDad Wrote:From what I witnessed it was more traffic than track that caused most problems.

On the busier practice days, it is a little harder to find a good line, but through the week, it is pretty slow, and runtime isn't a problem.

We went last night, and the changes I made to the Revo REALLY made a HUGE difference. I went from pushing in the corners to almost having too much steering... Only problem I had last night, was when I got too agressive, I would traction roll at the ends of the straights... I gotta remember, Brake first, accelerate through the turn, not Brake into the turn. :o:

And what did you change? Can't remember reading it....

BlackWolf42 Wrote:Would somebody be so kind as to use that track designer program or draw it out by hand/photoshop/etc:

I would like to see an image of an overhead view of the track at the new LHR.

Some kind of top down view would be required but I think a satellite view might work for the outdoor track, or measure every aspect of the track on the ground. It can be done

I went from it being stock to Changing the diff oils 30k front/10k rear, changed all the shock oils to 35 and switched the rear hinge pins to the lower set of holes. Those changes were for handling. Also added Response tires, Trinity pipe, wing and OS 11k carb

That's a lot of changes!!
Do you think the diff oil wts made the biggest impact on turning results?
And are you still running stock springs with that shock oil wt?

The diffs I'm sure made the biggest impact. I just changed the shock oils because I had them off when I was trying to figure out how to get the diffs out.. lol

The rear hinge pin in the lower hole, is supposed to kind of act as a sway bar in the rear, keeping the truck flater in the turns and adding steering.

And yes, stock springs.

Cool, that's for the info! I need to PM my diffs so I figure now's the time to mess with fluids.

Also try removing all the preload in the shocks. I found my truck absorbing bumbs and what not much better at the track when I did that.

If you aren't running a quickturn, I would definately recommend 30k Fr/10k Rear. I'm not sure what combination works best with the quickturn.

The rear upper hingepin location also will help in the turns as well. The lower set of holes will give a little more steering.

It took me a few laps to get used to the new set-up. If I so much as tapped the brakes in a turn, the back would whip around. As I started getting used to it, I would slow before the turn, and roll onto the throttle as I was starting the turn. Using that technique, the truck would pull through the turn.


As for Shock pre-load, All I did, was while I had the shocks off, With the springs in place, I turned the colar untill both ends of the spring were just touching the collars. I didn't want to take any more pre-load out, in fear that the springs would slip off the retainer while jumping...

Mr. Tune Wrote:Also try removing all the preload in the shocks. I found my truck absorbing bumbs and what not much better at the track when I did that.

Spring preload....using the collars, right?

Yep. Adjusted right height with pushrod location holes on arms, not spring collars.

Yes, using the collars. To make it easy to adjust them, elevate the truck on blocks or tires so that the wheels are fully extended. It takes the spring pressure off the collars making them easier to turn .

In case my addition was missed ( While I was editing my post, 2 more posts were added)

When I took pre-load out, I turned it all the way out, till the ends of the springs were still held in the retainers, but not putting pressure. This way, when the suspension is fully extended, there is no chance of the spring missing the collar and slipping off.