Looking for some advice about what the best diff set-up would be for the upcoming indoor season.
I've been told everything from extreamly thick to water thin. By now I'm a bit lost. A 2 year 9.5 Pro racer from the OFNA Board told me to go 10-25-1. That he tried everything and for this ride he was best off with this. Never really said if this was for indoor clay racing or outdoor loose track conditions. Slim (sup-nugga) explained to use 3-3-3 on a dry clay track and different still on a wet clay track. As you know set-up is a big part of getting your buggy to handle right. And not really knowing anything more than a common sense approach - it seems best to dig up some good answers.
Now that the LH track will be open - early to mid January I wanted to post the topic of Diff oil combinations for 1/8 buggies. Hopefully everyone who posts could explain why their recipie is the best.
Oh... Also need some feedback/reviews on the Panther Switch Clay tires vs. the Proline Inside Job tires (now avalible in super soft M2 compound) If you've used either or better both and could suggest which set is best. Mainly looking for maximum traction. Figure if it sticks better I'd race better..... :joy: :joy:
i have panther switch c compound. i used them a few times at leisure but i havent really had much run time on them. i do know however they are much better than the stock tires i have
I cant comment on the diff setup but I just wanted to add about the tires.
At the track I used to run at in KS it was a smooth clay track and a couple of guys had tryed the inside jobs and said they had great traction. Great forward bite but they did say that at times they felt that when the track had been wet down then let dry there was was a little to much side bit and they would have to sand down the outside rows of pins to get rid of it a little other wise they would have traction roll on the long sweepers.
I hope this help out some.
Did they have the M2 or M3 compound? I have used the switch tires, although not the "CLAY" version and could easily say they didn't have enough traction - yet alone too much.
im not sure i just know them as the c compound
It was the M2 compound, I can ask them how they felt the tires where when the track dryed out some but I only wathced and asked them how they where after the track was watered then dryed
Wow 10 25 1 sounds like an outdoor setup on a loose track or a truggy, but as that guy told you that works best for him. I think Slims setup (Sup Nugga) is more inline for tight turns and high traction. I personally have used 5-10-3, 5-7-3, and now 3-5-1 in my mayhem and cant tell a damn bit of differance. What does this tell me? Drive drive drive till I can tell the diffrence. :joy: Lighter in the rear does seem to help it turn
Well I can tell the 5-10-1 in my mayhem st.
Stock is 5-7-1. with it like that my front tires were spinning out.
Since I changed to the heavier weight on the center it seems to be more evenly spread with the wheels spinning. I mean the distribution of power between the front and rear seems more balanced.
I also upped from 35 wt to 45 wt on the front shocks and that seems to keep the front end from nose diving into the ground so bad. I stuck with the 30 wt with the rear shocks.
With these changes and the bow ties---it hugged the tight track on hard surface at Newberrys.
Try
5k/7k/3k in the Ofna
Shocks 60wt in the front, 40 in the rear
-2* camber on 4 wheels
3* rear toe
-2* front toe
If you can get the Ofna light blue springs for all 4 shocks.
Very funny - MX Kevin.
I can't really tell anything from the changes either. It must do something.
Seems like thick would pul the car through the turn better - if used in the front - both tires turning more than only one tire turning. The rear seems like it would push the turn if it was too thick. Heavy in the center would send power to both the front and the rear making more forward traction because of increased "4 Wheel Drive Effect"
Proves the 10-25-1 theory. Anyone know what really thin does?
60-40 in the shocks would be way too stiff. The buggy has like 20 or 25 in it now. Any thicker would make the suspension so slow I would be rebounding off of the first half of the double after the second half.
I compared how quickly it reacted by pushing the back and front of my buggy up & down with some of the A Main guys and I was way slower. It must have smaller holes in the pistons or something. I had to go really light on the oil to get mine the way the better racers had theirs. Apparently slow and stupid doesn't well on a tight and technical track. But would work well on a long rough track.
Logical to think the A Main guys are in the A Main because they know more and set-up their rides so everything works better. Either copy them or keep messing with everything until you know for yourself...
Anyway, 60-40 won't work in my ride. Know anything about drilling out pistons??
One thing you must remember almost all a main guys are not racing a Ofna 9.5. All Iknow in my sp2, and in alot others 60 /40 shock oil is not unheard of.
** Heavier center diff fluid, takes power from the front and sends it to the rear.
Also just takes someone set as a basis, because driving syle also determines how you should set up your buggy
a-main guys are in the a-mains because they are good racers too! i run 5/7/1 in my diffs on my 9.5 and could tell a huge difference in my buggy when i switched from 3/3/3 the buggy stopped pulling throught the corner and started pushing itself through them. the front tires stopped spinning which improved tration off the line. like i said in a previous thread go out buy a bunch of diff oils and find out what works best for you! i got lucky a generic setup works for me.
on the tires i have no clue?
If you can pick up a copy of the Xray instruction manual it comes with a whole thing on tuning and tell u basically what happens when u change anything on your buggy I highly reccommend it,
Maybe slim dog can go scan his onto here?????
ill find in in a bit and will post up some knowledge fo ya!
SUP NUGGA!
u goin to leisure monday (fingers crossed)
I still see no updates on the website on if it is open or not.
Me and Asto - aka Dan - are either going to Leisure Hours if they are open or the long haul back out to NewBerry's on the weekend of the 7th & 8th.
So BioDragen should hook up with Dean and his new Savage for a meeting. LMK
ok here are my thoughts....
front:
lighter:
will help turn in, as you are headed to the corner, both sides are spinning the same. as soon as you turn the wheel, that diff needs to spin. if its light oil then it can start that action sooner.
if you go to light in the oil, coming out of the turn may suffer as the inside wheel will want to spin. also to light in the front can make the car twitchy on a less that perfect straight a way.... i had 3 in mine at cory's track, and quickly switched it out for 5 and i didnt have the wandering problem.
heavy in the front. well pretty much opposite as stated ubove... the prob i see with heavy is, if your turn in suffering, your gonna push, while your gonna have it pull you outta the corner better than light, your gonna leave the door open for some one to tuck in that corner and your gonna get passed.
you gonna have to find a middle ground, for me thats 5k mugen.
CENTER:
lite oil lets the front spin more that the back.. think of this.... rwd vs fwd in the snow...
when snowy (newberries sunday) the fwd car is gonna track better while accelerating.
if the rears are spinning due to a heavy center diff, then the car is gonna float around under power, also may loop out as you apply power outta the corner. again you need to find a ballance of both, so the car is neutral, or predictable. i tend to like 4-5k mugen in my center. 7 may work at LH tho as there will be more grip.
Rear:
to lite in the rear for me means the car will be unpredictable coming outta the corner on power. i can tell if my rear has leaked out or broke down, as i will spin out on exit.
on a medium tracktion track, to lite in the rear transfers the spin to the inside rear, once the weight falls back to that inside rear, that spinning will transfer to the otherside, then back again.... i seen it happen before. rear was all over the place when that happened.
to heavy can cause turn in to suffer, for the same reason i described for the front, as soon as the car turns, the diff needs to "diff". also if you go to heavy, it can act like a posi or a locked rear end, and your gonna spin out putting the power down outta the corner.
again, find a balance to where your commfy....
at newbs coming onto the straight, i was full power before most. i was full throttle right at the corner of the tube. if the car wasnt ballanced for power, there is no way i coulda started that early. 5 in the rear for me perfect as it is JUST heavy enuf to drive the outter rear, without letting the inner spin, and that really makes it come outta the hole hard.
NOW. ... i cant tell you what you need for diffs... every car and every driving style has an effect. i know how the ofna shocks are, i think they use a 1.1 hole in it. if you can find a numbered bit set, i believe #55 or 54 is like a 1.4 hole. wayyyyy better for shock action.
leeme see if i can find a online for the xray manual
oh and one more good tip.....
if you are having a prob with the front, adjust the rear, and vise versa....
the rear geomerty has ALOT to do with the way the front handles the corners.
i find the only thing i change is the rear, upper link and toe, and sometimes rear sway to fine tune.
ok i got the .pdf of the xray setup bible....
email me at
[email protected] with rc pimp in the title and ill forward it to you....
its 450KB so i cant attach it here.
Hey Slim Dawg, Id like a copy of that
[email protected]
Thanks Bro
I should read before I post...Ill email u when I get home in an hour
Thanks Slim...Thats some tasty info I needed to know in my quest for some serious whoop a**.
watch out im comming for ya nugga...LOL
So Slim, if I'm running 5/5/3 in the XB8 and it pushes mid and corner exit, would you recommend 3/5/3 ? Or would changing something else help out ?
I always thought 3 in the frt would be way to thin.
Thanks.