ChitownRC

Full Version: somewhat urgent help needed
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5
Obsessive R/C Wrote:I should have just taken it with me. lol :p:

You want too?


edit: I would have been so much better off if I let someone break in the engine for me in the first place Sad
Needs new diffs now right?? Did you figure out the elec. problem or is the new Rx doing the same thing?
Obsessive R/C Wrote:Needs new diffs now right?? Did you figure out the elec. problem or is the new Rx doing the same thing?

I'm pretty sure I need new spyder gears for the front and rear. I only got a look at the front ring and pinion, and they are fine. Didn't get a chance to look at the rear, because I stripped my hex drivers...


about the Rx, I told you I checked the pack right before I did the first tank, well.. after you left, I checked it again, it had no charge left on it (and its a 2700Mah pack not even used for a gallon :eek: )

Well... at least I have a spare receiver in case I rip the antenna out again Rolleyes
Thats why I kept asking how you checked it...not that I didn't belive you or anything...it just seemed like it would be voltage related.
Do you have the parts you need??
Obsessive R/C Wrote:Thats why I kept asking how you checked it...not that I didn't belive you or anything...it just seemed like it would be voltage related.

it read 6.03v when I checked before break in, after you left it was at 4.something.

its a superbrain 959 charger, i have read mixed reviews on it.
dont know if you got er yet, but man , give the low speed a full turn in.

is that voltage for a 4 or 5 cell? 6.4 on a 5 cell is dead... or almost.
slim Wrote:dont know if you got er yet, but man , give the low speed a full turn in.

is that voltage for a 4 or 5 cell? 6.4 on a 5 cell is dead... or almost.

its a 5 cell. Obsessive has my maxx now.
He'll get it up and running
I'm parting it out on Ebay!!!Big Grin
Obsessive R/C Wrote:I'm parting it out on Ebay!!!Big Grin
:p:


ps. I sent the shims today
I ordered your parts, hopefully they'll come Saturday.
Hey Rob, what about the next time it breaks?
Tex Wrote:Hey Rob, what about the next time it breaks?

The 2mm screws that hold the ring gear to the diff cup sheared off, so I'm having obsessive order me the FLM diff cup w/ 3mm screws. It should be a while before that breaks.

If my CV-RX dies again, I have another one sitting here, broken in.

If my spektrum receiver breaks again, I have a backup.

besides that, the only thing I see breaking would be arms (easy) and servos.

The one thing I really don't like fixing/setting up myself are the diffs, because when I do, they don't last long. This time really got to me because the front broke before I even had the engine broken in.

NOW, if the predator chassis or VBS breaks.... :eek:
so pretty much it's just the diffs? Save up for some UE's and you'll never have to worry again.
Tex Wrote:so pretty much it's just the diffs? Save up for some UE's and you'll never have to worry again.

I was going to get UE diffs, but they require CVDs. I don't have the $$$ for both right now... next year.
next years good.......but this year is better.

UE 6's = $130-140 used
UE steel cvds = $60-70 used

So lets say $200 and I think your truck will almost be all SM, 'cept the tranny. There will always be something more to get.

I'm sure those FL cups will be fine. The CVRX shouldn't blow those out too easy at all. I bet they will last awhile. You will twist driveshafts though. I guess those are cheap anyway on the bay.
Tex Wrote:UE 6's = $130-140 used

I have VBS, so I can get 8 spyder diffs NEW for $160 Cool

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-...13556.html

Tex Wrote:UE steel cvds = $60-70 used

I'm a little weary of buying used cvds. I seen lots of deals where people claimed the cvds were "like new" or "hardly used", but then the buyer gets them and says theirs lots of slack, or they are bent a little, etc.

What I'm hoping to do is buy some CVDs NIP on the BST forum, save me a couple bucks from buying direct from UE.
or buy used from a reputable seller.

I forgot you don't need diff cases with VBS, actually I didn't even think about it. lol
The parts came today. I put in new spider gears also. Wasn't sure how much time you had on the old ones, it's better to start fresh.

Your diffs are done...but I still need the shims.

Your trans hangs up a little when you spin it w/o anything else attached. Would you like me to look into it? Or leave it alone??
Obsessive R/C Wrote:Your trans hangs up a little when you spin it w/o anything else attached. Would you like me to look into it? Or leave it alone??
ygpm
Trans seemed fine, yet when the truck is fully assembled and you roll it....clik - clik - clik....it just doesn't seem right. Diffs are nice and smooth, tight but not too tight.

Seeing that I had never seen your truck prior to it being broken, did it make any noise before?
Obsessive R/C Wrote:Trans seemed fine, yet when the truck is fully assembled and you roll it....clik - clik - clik....it just doesn't seem right. Diffs are nice and smooth, tight but not too tight.

Seeing that I had never seen your truck prior to it being broken, did it make any noise before?

the only time it has made a click noise since I started running it with the new CV-RX & VBS was when the front diff went out. Did you get the shims? When I used even the smallest shim for the pinion gear in either diff, it would click, so I removed it and used only a spacer.
I guess I'll keep at it...
Obsessive R/C Wrote:I guess I'll keep at it...

you got the shims?


If YOU don't think the clicking is bad, don't worry about it. I just don't want to get my maxx back and break something within a few tanks again.
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5