ChitownRC

I finished setting up the trx maxx diffs in the front VBS, I have to go to work soon, so the rear is going to have to wait for tomorrow.

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Tex, you can ignore the PM lol.

Those are sweet man, why go to all that trouble and not get CVD's?

RCDad Wrote:Those are sweet man, why go to all that trouble and not get CVD's?

I plan on upgrading the diffs and CVDs all at once, but due to funds, thats going to wait untill next year.

Aren't the stock axles weaker than the diffs?

RCDad Wrote:Aren't the stock axles weaker than the diffs?

The stock driveshafts are usually the first things to go when you get a more powerful engine, but if I get CVDs, im going to get 8 spyder diffs also, but I don't have the cash to do that at the same time.

The stock driveshafts held up to the .18 cv-r for the gallon I was able to run

Maxx=money pit

I read somewhere that if you reverse the axles (tube side coming off the diff) that they are more resistant to twisting. It also keeps the dirt & dust out. Since it's already apart it may be worth a try.

on my old school maxx that had the older smaller diamater driveshafts I used to epoxy wooden dowel into the center of the axle. after doing that the U joint ends would snap before they would twist and break.

Quote:Maxx=money pit

imo aren't all r/c's money pits?

not as much as a t-maxx. Everything needs to be upgraded on it to make it reliable.

Michowski Wrote:not as much as a t-maxx. Everything needs to be upgraded on it to make it reliable.

my t-maxx was pretty reliable in stock form auctually.

The VBS is now finished, I installed the rear diff, put a few stickers on it, and mounted up the shocks. The install of the rear differential went much quicker than the front since I knew what I was doing this time.

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