12-04-2005, 12:38 AM
I couldnt find the exact article I read about using the Syth oil but heres a par of it.
Taken from Avid Bearings site
What should I use to lube my bearings?
There is honestly nothing better on the market that we have found as far as bearing oil other than 10w30 Mobil 1 car oil. The oil is highly engineered and designed for high temperature situations, and a quart will last you your lifetime in RC.
What is the best method for insuring the life of a bearing?
There are a couple of suggestions here depending on the particular bearing in question.
Clutch Bearing: Due to the sensitive nature of clutches, we suggest that you blast your metal clutch bearings with compressed air while the shields are still on the bearing. The majority of grease will come out on the other side around the inner ring. This will allow for a protective layer of grease in case dust is an issue. You will also benefit from this method because your bearing will lubricated well by the remaining grease in the bearing, but it won't be enough grease to be flung out on your first run causing the clutch to slip and bearings to burn up and change to a pretty color like blue or purple. If you choose not to do this, than we suggest that after your first run (make it no more than 5 minutes), take your clutch bell off and wipe it down to remove the excess of grease that was flung out of the bearing. You should be ready to go for longer than you are used to after doing this. Now remember, it isn't necessary to do this but if you are Avid about being perfect, than by all means.
Wheel/Hub Bearing: The best choice with these is to leave them suckers alone. We only suggest you replace the grease with oil if you are looking for the most prime performance by the cost of wasting bearings fast. If you leave the grease in the bearing, it acts as a second barrier to protecting the inner race and balls from debris.
What can cause a clutch to eat bearings?
We have put together a 12 step program to ensure the longevity of your bearings. This will allow you to get the most bang for your buck.
Mesh is too loose
Endplay is too much or too little, needs to be 0.4mm, and use a washer on the outside or a Kyosho blue bevel thing.
Motor bearings are getting old, have a little play
Crank shaft is slightly bent, usually not noticeable by the eye.
Leaving too much grease in them, causing clutch slippage and overheating
Motor that is not fully tightened to the blocks or screws missing from the bottom holding the blocks
Trying to run a Kyosho bell on a mugen car without grinding the chassis.
Running a car with no rear chassis stiffener or screw falls out
Clutch bell and center diff gears should be getting the maximum amount of teeth contact on each other, seen people set them up with only a 1/4 of teeth touching each other or not at a perfect 90 degree angle..
Worn out clutch shoes that allow the clutch to slip more than it should, excessive heat.
Crankshaft nut backing off and causing the clutch to get tight
Spacing the clutch bell too close to the flywheel, should never be able to touch.
What shield/seal is right for you?
Seals are not that tricky of a thing to understand. Rubber seals offer the most protection from debris entering the bearing but at the cost of a little friction from the rubber seal touching the cage under loaded activities. Teflon provides the least amount of friction with great protection but teflon seals are known to be touchy animals while under load, they have a tendency to pop off. Metal shields are your most common variety of shield offered in the bearing market by providing decent protection and low friction.
Metal (ZZ): Suggested use of metal is on high temperature areas such as clutches or on tracks that are always well maintained with light watering in-between rounds.
Rubber (RS): They are becoming the more popular bearing among avid rc enthusiasts because they require the least maintenance to keep up to speed. In 1/8th scale clutches the rubber seal is not harmed if your clutch is setup correctly, however in 1/10 scale nitro trucks they will melt. We suggest that you use these on dusty or wet/muddy tracks because of their protection. The amount of resistance created by rubber is not noticeable in our uses so this is another reason of their rising popularity.
Teflon (TS): We suggest you use teflon inside of enclosed areas such as transmissions. They provide the least amount of resistance but best used in non-loaded situations.
Taken from Avid Bearings site
What should I use to lube my bearings?
There is honestly nothing better on the market that we have found as far as bearing oil other than 10w30 Mobil 1 car oil. The oil is highly engineered and designed for high temperature situations, and a quart will last you your lifetime in RC.
What is the best method for insuring the life of a bearing?
There are a couple of suggestions here depending on the particular bearing in question.
Clutch Bearing: Due to the sensitive nature of clutches, we suggest that you blast your metal clutch bearings with compressed air while the shields are still on the bearing. The majority of grease will come out on the other side around the inner ring. This will allow for a protective layer of grease in case dust is an issue. You will also benefit from this method because your bearing will lubricated well by the remaining grease in the bearing, but it won't be enough grease to be flung out on your first run causing the clutch to slip and bearings to burn up and change to a pretty color like blue or purple. If you choose not to do this, than we suggest that after your first run (make it no more than 5 minutes), take your clutch bell off and wipe it down to remove the excess of grease that was flung out of the bearing. You should be ready to go for longer than you are used to after doing this. Now remember, it isn't necessary to do this but if you are Avid about being perfect, than by all means.
Wheel/Hub Bearing: The best choice with these is to leave them suckers alone. We only suggest you replace the grease with oil if you are looking for the most prime performance by the cost of wasting bearings fast. If you leave the grease in the bearing, it acts as a second barrier to protecting the inner race and balls from debris.
What can cause a clutch to eat bearings?
We have put together a 12 step program to ensure the longevity of your bearings. This will allow you to get the most bang for your buck.
Mesh is too loose
Endplay is too much or too little, needs to be 0.4mm, and use a washer on the outside or a Kyosho blue bevel thing.
Motor bearings are getting old, have a little play
Crank shaft is slightly bent, usually not noticeable by the eye.
Leaving too much grease in them, causing clutch slippage and overheating
Motor that is not fully tightened to the blocks or screws missing from the bottom holding the blocks
Trying to run a Kyosho bell on a mugen car without grinding the chassis.
Running a car with no rear chassis stiffener or screw falls out
Clutch bell and center diff gears should be getting the maximum amount of teeth contact on each other, seen people set them up with only a 1/4 of teeth touching each other or not at a perfect 90 degree angle..
Worn out clutch shoes that allow the clutch to slip more than it should, excessive heat.
Crankshaft nut backing off and causing the clutch to get tight
Spacing the clutch bell too close to the flywheel, should never be able to touch.
What shield/seal is right for you?
Seals are not that tricky of a thing to understand. Rubber seals offer the most protection from debris entering the bearing but at the cost of a little friction from the rubber seal touching the cage under loaded activities. Teflon provides the least amount of friction with great protection but teflon seals are known to be touchy animals while under load, they have a tendency to pop off. Metal shields are your most common variety of shield offered in the bearing market by providing decent protection and low friction.
Metal (ZZ): Suggested use of metal is on high temperature areas such as clutches or on tracks that are always well maintained with light watering in-between rounds.
Rubber (RS): They are becoming the more popular bearing among avid rc enthusiasts because they require the least maintenance to keep up to speed. In 1/8th scale clutches the rubber seal is not harmed if your clutch is setup correctly, however in 1/10 scale nitro trucks they will melt. We suggest that you use these on dusty or wet/muddy tracks because of their protection. The amount of resistance created by rubber is not noticeable in our uses so this is another reason of their rising popularity.
Teflon (TS): We suggest you use teflon inside of enclosed areas such as transmissions. They provide the least amount of resistance but best used in non-loaded situations.