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11-16-2005, 06:57 PM
When I switched from TRX 20% to Platnium 30% I filled the tank and drove it like normal. You never wanna just 'go back to factory settings'. All that does is screw your tune up even more. Factory settings are a loose setting that they ship the motors out with, just so you can start it and start break in. You do not have to re-break in your motor when switching fuels.
What if I'm in Denver and your on the beach in cali, factory settings mean nothing. 
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11-16-2005, 10:32 PM
pretty much what he said...think of it this way, when you buy an aftermarket cooling head, the ideal thing to do is tune your motor with the stock head, then throw on the bigger head and see what the temps are. And retune from to get a little more heat into the motor for more performance the same goes for the fuel, but im sure you'd wanna lean er' out after you run the 30% it just runs cooler. OTher than that dont go messing with your settings to an extreme level so that your motor needs retuning.
www.czech-it-out-graphics.com 1/29/07 never forget....TTT  Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you "Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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11-17-2005, 12:22 AM
That makes sense, I'm still trying to figure out the finer points of nitro tuning, so what I read for now is my sole source of info aside from what you guys tell me. So thanks for the info, every little bit helps.
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11-19-2005, 01:04 AM
im gonna look through my stuff from online, Ill see if i can start up a tuning thread
www.czech-it-out-graphics.com 1/29/07 never forget....TTT Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you "Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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11-21-2005, 02:36 PM
I just picked up the Nitro Engine Tuning Guide that you see selling in every magazine. Online it's on sale for $20 (used to be $30). It's full of good info from tested sources. And it's easy to read and follow. Talks about pipes and headers, different carbs, too of info. as well. Too cheap not to have around, IMO. Some of the newest engines aren't in there, but the basic principles are the same as they ever were.
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11-21-2005, 10:10 PM
cool
www.czech-it-out-graphics.com 1/29/07 never forget....TTT Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you "Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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11-25-2005, 09:11 AM
All this info is great guys, one of the best I have found plus you guys are local(loving that), but probably sound like a newbie, after awhile in this hobby, my tunning question is, if your motor is slightly outta tune, will it affect you tranny shifting? My max was like that, but I am having a hard time with my NTC3 shifting. I have the smoke, I tempted at 190 without body, 210-220 with. Am I overlooking something?
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11-25-2005, 12:21 PM
The temp/tune will not directly effect the shift point. You will most likely notice a different shift point, my guess is later, since the motor isnt tuned right so it is taking longer to spool up the RPMs
www.czech-it-out-graphics.com 1/29/07 never forget....TTT Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you "Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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11-25-2005, 01:17 PM
yep, if it's on the rich side it will shift later because the RPMs aren't there to cause the pawl type 2-speed to enguage. The motor has to be spooled up in the RPMs to give enough force to open the pawl causing the 2nd speed to catch.
Opposite happens when it's a bit leaner than normal. The 2-speed will catch earlier. If your temps are around 220F with the body on I'd say that's a decent temp for how cold it is outside. I would leave your tune where it is and adjust your 2-speed adj. screw. If you loosen the screw it will shift sooner.
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