Official Mugen MBX5T Thread - Page 14 - Chitown R/C - Chicago's Largest RC Car and Truck Community

Czech-it-Out Graphics · (#326 (**permalink**))

never cracked mine, cmon joe just stop hitting the walls at LH and ull be fine

now go on yahoo

HAGASAN · (#327 (**permalink**))

Sure ya didnt. But then again ya got a different chassis on it now cracka.

rcrunr1 · (#328 (**permalink**))

didn't mean to spark the old mugen vs. kyosho vs. TTR debate. I had heard the addition of spiral-cut diff gears for Mugen and Kyosho placed a major importance on gear mesh -- thus the shimming question.
So is it just a "feel" thing to know whats tight and too tight or loose and too loose. I'd think tighter is better to allow it to 'wear-in'. So how many shims and what size on each side?????

pwnzor · (#329 (**permalink**))

Soon, Soon, I will have my Mugen!!!!!!!!!!
gimme some build tips for my new mbx5t that will be here next week.....I cant freakin wait!!!!!!!!!!!

Its gonna be a standard, but thats ok with me, I will make it hardcore with KhZ shyt, and does anyone know if Xtreme racing carbon parts are any good??? they are cheaper then the prospec carbon pieces, like the upper steering plate, center diff plate, radio plate etc. Just curious if they are decent, the machine work on their pieces looks kinda "half assed"

cemeb4dk · (#330 (**permalink**))

where did you end up buying it at?

pwnzor · (#331 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by cemeb4dk

where did you end up buying it at?

I just placed my order with Bmain, they were the cheapest

dentguy92 · (#332 (**permalink**))

don't change the stering plate, radio tray, and the top diff plate. the aluminum Mugen stuff will work great...... Just find some prospec shock towers on ebay or wait until the kingheadz ones are available....

pwnzor · (#333 (**permalink**))

I Just like carbon fiber, but I dont want to compromise strength/rigidity for appearance, I will hold off on the towers for the KhZ ones

pwnzor · (#334 (**permalink**))

did you guys glue the stock brake pads to the calipers, I read Tyler Vik say not to, heat will bond them after a few runs, also.......I read to leave the small O-rings out in the diffs, but to use them in the outdrives......what about shimsfor the diffs, just follow manual?

chickenfarmer3 · (#335 (**permalink**))

i didnt use stock brake pads i switched to TTR brakes, no small orings in the diffs just the ones that seal the outdrives, i didnt have to shim my difff it was ok.

MX_KEVIN · (#336 (**permalink**))

I didnt glue and they still havnt bonded but no problems. No small O rings. And I didnt and still dont need shims. 0 diff problems.

chickenfarmer3 · (#337 (**permalink**))

juat make sure to use ass loads of good grease on the outdrives and the diffs are golden.

Czech-it-Out Graphics · (#338 (**permalink**))

thick ass grease too like the black AE stuff

Stahoo · (#339 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by chickenfarmer3

juat make sure to use ass loads of good grease on the outdrives and the diffs are golden.

Chad, you said to put grease on the outdrives but did you really mean ring and pinion gears? I know Mugen mentions (in their instructions) something about putting grease on the ends of the universals but they don't state anything about the ring and pinon.

Just wanted to clarify.

Kevin

Czech-it-Out Graphics · (#340 (**permalink**))

put grease on the outdrive shaft, you also need to grease the ring and pinion gears