Rs4

[rawkfist2]

I just traded off my jato w/o engine for a RS4 RTR with OS 18 CV and 9 tanks on it. I want to know what are some nice hop ups for it. Really im gonna drift it and race these little pukes on there dirt bikes.

[Ponch]

This is in off-road why?

[Racin' Ranger1]

ill race you on my dirtbike

[rawkfist2]

HHAHA ok lets race. and y is this in off road F***

[rawkfist2]

I traded my jato roller for a RS4 with a new OS 18 Cv-R. I want to know what ups i can do on her to make her race ready. Its allready got a decent engine and i want to make it a drifter for my house and racer for the track. Any ideas?

[TmaxxCrap]

Originally Posted by rawkfist2

HHAHA ok lets race. and y is this in off road F***

Because you clicked there when you posted it

[rawkfist2]

I no i was probaly surfin this section and didnt think where i was.

[snakebite46]

Threads merged and moved to on-road.

[Ponch]

Originally Posted by snakebite46

Threads merged and moved to on-road.

Hoo-Raa!

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Other than for parking lot bashing I don't really think you get the idea of a OS .18cvr in a 1/10th scale yet. It will be REALLY tough to control it when you hit gas.

I have a OFNA OB4 Pro w/a OS .18cvr and its well....fast! Why did I put it in there? Well, it goes fast, in a straight line.

No amount of upgrades will help you when that 1/10th scale on-road slams into a curb at 50mph+. Damage between 50 and 70mph is really negligible. Both hits destroy the car badly.

Get a GOOD body with high downforce and you'll be alot happier.

[Mr. Tune]

Racer setup = stick to the ground, no sliding
Drift setup = no traction, sliding mandatory.

I don't think it's possible to setup the car to do both equally good. It's one or the other.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

As an owner of an RS4 (and it used to be two of them), for racing I think the biggest weak spot of the RS4 is the suspension design. The car uses dogbones or turnbuckles for upper arms front and rear. Getting good suspension settings and good steering response from this setup is harder than from a design with upper arms, such as the TC3 or R40. But the average guy won't notice it. I suggest CVD's for the whole car, especially if you plan on keeping the 18 in there. Drive dogbones on the RS4 are small and get lost when the suspension dogbone links pop off in a crash.

This will sound crazy, I know, but I find the car easier to drive due to the fact that my Futaba radio has an anti-lock brake feature that pulse the brake servo. It just works for me.

I got wide foams for the car. Watch the wheel offset. The rears can hit the radio box when you get around 30mm wide or above. I ground away the rear corner of the radio box to get more clearance, but could have spaced the wheels on the hexes, I suppose.

Ditch the stock body if it has a viper. The Toureza body is more like what you want, or a Mazda6, or Stratus.

Ditch the drycell holder and buy a rechargeable pack for receiver/servos. The car will drive more consistantly over time, and cost less to run, over time.

Other than that, play with the shock oils, springs, tires, camber and toe settings (if you have turnbucles) to get it to drive how you like.

OH....buy a cool flag painted BMW body for it!!! see for sale section here.

shameless, I know.....

[Ponch]

Originally Posted by DAVEC-NITRO-RS4

As an owner of an RS4 (and it used to be two of them), for racing I think the biggest weak spot of the RS4 is the suspension design. The car uses dogbones or turnbuckles for upper arms front and rear. Getting good suspension settings and good steering response from this setup is harder than from a design with upper arms, such as the TC3 or R40. But the average guy won't notice it. I suggest CVD's for the whole car, especially if you plan on keeping the 18 in there. Drive dogbones on the RS4 are small and get lost when the suspension dogbone links pop off in a crash.

This will sound crazy, I know, but I find the car easier to drive due to the fact that my Futaba radio has an anti-lock brake feature that pulse the brake servo. It just works for me.

I got wide foams for the car. Watch the wheel offset. The rears can hit the radio box when you get around 30mm wide or above. I ground away the rear corner of the radio box to get more clearance, but could have spaced the wheels on the hexes, I suppose.

Ditch the stock body if it has a viper. The Toureza body is more like what you want, or a Mazda6, or Stratus.

Ditch the drycell holder and buy a rechargeable pack for receiver/servos. The car will drive more consistantly over time, and cost less to run, over time.

Other than that, play with the shock oils, springs, tires, camber and toe settings (if you have turnbucles) to get it to drive how you like.

OH....buy a cool flag painted BMW body for it!!! see for sale section here.

shameless, I know.....

+1 to EVERYTHING Dave just said. Especially the CVD's. Nothing worse than not getting to race because you lost a dogbone.