general revo discussion

[Tex]

Are the Hardcore Ti or AL, I thought they were Aluminum? I think Squid www.bigsquidrc.com can get the hook up for like $250 for the Flextek....Something like that anyway, not sure exactly.

[Tex]

OR you could get

diff cases
cvd's (with centers)
proline single steering arm
RDracing servo saver mount
TRX heavy duty saver spring
one good servo ($75 or so)
spare a-arms, rod ends
pullstart
FOC
edit:good hex drivers


All that for around $300

[MyJeep]

Originally Posted by Tex

Are the Hardcore Ti or AL, I thought they were Aluminum? I think Squid www.bigsquidrc.com can get the hook up for like $250 for the Flextek....Something like that anyway, not sure exactly.

The new version is mix. Ti & Alum.

Want the ultimate in lightweight and strength? Look no further. Our combination titanium and aluminum arms are exactly that! Made from 6AL4V titanium and 6061-T6 aluminum, these are our coolest arms yet! They feature HCR's Modular Titanium System (MTS) with stainless rivits for strength and corrosion resistance. Set screws are used to keep the pivot balls from backing out. These arms have the best weight to strength ratio on the market!

[Sh1nn3r]

ARe the titanium lighter the the rpm's?

[JOE]

i don't think they are but i dont think there would be much of a weight diff either way but rpms cost like $40 those are almost $300, i quess it just comes down to what you like i guess.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

Originally Posted by Tex

OR you could get

diff cases
cvd's (with centers)
proline single steering arm
RDracing servo saver mount
TRX heavy duty saver spring
one good servo ($75 or so)
spare a-arms, rod ends
pullstart
FOC
edit:good hex drivers


All that for around $300

Good shopping list for "Santa", or Mrs. Claus......

[Sh1nn3r]

Well if santa wants to give me a m11 ill be happy.

[FreeRideFrosty]

Originally Posted by Tex

OR you could get

diff cases
cvd's (with centers)
proline single steering arm
RDracing servo saver mount
TRX heavy duty saver spring
one good servo ($75 or so)
spare a-arms, rod ends
pullstart
FOC
edit:good hex drivers


All that for around $300

Don't worry Tex... That will all get done too. I was just curious now. I refuse to run RPM arms. They look like crap, the are bulky, and they rub, and they DO break. For now I will be running the stockers. I am also sticking to my original plan. I am only replacing things that break with better parts or am upgrading when money is burning a hole in my pocket. (Or if a killer deal comes along) I got a good deal on rocker arm posts, so I bought them. I broke a part of my skidplate so I will be buying the full Ti one. I am building it one piece at a time... (But unlike Johnny Cash this is going to cost me far more than a dime. )

[MyJeep]

Try boil the rpm arms before you put it on. It will reduce the chances it will get snapped.

[FreeRideFrosty]

Doesn't keep them from rubbing though... I have heard that they have a really bad fit on the revo...

[MyJeep]

Not on mine. Rubbing against the bulkhead? Then you probably have a bent rocker post.

[Michowski]

no if you run maxx size rims they will rub and cut a groove into the front a-arms. I have seen this on a couple revo's and i think thats a bad design on rpm's part. They do make a good strong a-arm but theres no reason for it to be rubbing.

[MyJeep]

Oh .. I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.

So most people run narrowed wabash for that reason maybe?

[Michowski]

probly 50% of the people run max size rims, 40% run 23mm 40 series like wabash, and 10% run stock rims. Most if not all people who buy the rpm arms cant do anything but just drive or buy all standard revo rims and get new sets of tires.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

Originally Posted by Tex

one good servo ($75 or so)

Gabe, what steering servo would be OK in the $75 price range? Most of the other servos I've been told are good, like Airtronics 358, 359z, etc... are all around $100-115? Thanks!