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11-05-2005, 12:46 PM
Check ALL the screws, engine mounting bolts, head bolts, etc... If there are any loose screws, when the engine is running, it can cause vibration, and could be the cause of your glitching.
As for the brake bias, it is all a matter of feel... Some people like more rear, some like more front, some like 50/50. Play aroung with each setting, till you see which suits your driving. |
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11-05-2005, 02:33 PM
Allright, checked ALL screws, and they were all tight...No clue now....Any other ideas?
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11-05-2005, 02:51 PM
Throttle servo maybe?? Grasping at straws here...
As for the brake bias... For overall bashing and on-road I have it set about 50-50 or a bit more towards the front. Depending on the track conditions would depend on how it is set up there. Sometimes you want to have a nice controlled slow down upon entry, others I like to almost kick out the back end and power through the turn... just a matter of feel. |
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11-05-2005, 05:23 PM
Yeah, now I found my mistake. Almost a $50 one too. I didn't bother noticing where I routed my servo wires and my BRAND NEW JR650's wires got chewed up-that's what's been causing the smoking, the steering, and ALL the glitching. Had to cut the wire where it was frayed and re-solder the wires to the circut board. Barely reaches the reciever- mabye 1 inch to spare- I guess I got lucky. But now that it all works I got her tuned up and DANG!!! this thing is sweet. Jumping from the street I almost hit my house 2 times...Crud...If I wanted to I could have jumped into the living room...But that wouldn't have flown well with the parents being that it'd have to go through a window first...lol...Would make for a cool vid though. So tonight I'll fiddle with the brake setup...
Would having the front have more braking power, that would make the rear slide out easier? And with the rear having more grab, that'd reduce steering while braking right? Thanks much. |
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11-05-2005, 05:49 PM
Glad to here you got the problems sorted out.
"If you cook scallops in a non-stick pan, then they won't stick. That's why they call it NON F@#*$&%G STICK!!!" - Im watching YOU!- roc |
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11-05-2005, 09:01 PM
Quote:
If you have more front brakes you will not turn as well while braking. If you have the rears enguage first (I always liked that better) the back end will come around on you
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11-05-2005, 09:07 PM
Woah....Alrighty then...I guess I'll go mess with the linkages again *ugh* heh
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11-15-2005, 09:55 PM
i would stick with neutral or 60 front 40 back on the brakes, if you set either to the extreme u probably wont be able to drive it as consistent just my $.02
www.czech-it-out-graphics.com 1/29/07 never forget....TTT ![]() Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you "Always Imitated, Never Duplicated" |
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11-15-2005, 11:40 PM
I adjust the brakes in a center diff RC like this.. With the engine not runing but radio gear all on pick up the front just off the ground and roll the car back and forth while slowly pulling the brakes on the controller. you will be able to see (if the wheels lock) and/or feel when then the rear brakes are grabing and how much they are grabing. Then pick up the back of the car and do the same to feel how much front brake you have compared to the rear and adjust them until they feel decent. Ther is no sure fire way to set an exact brake amount.
For sure experiment with the brakes. ret more rear brake, then 50/50, then more front brakes. Most everyone runs more rear brake or 50/50 becuase it will give more steering while on the brakes. heavy front brakes causes the front tires to lock and you have no steering at all. 1:1.. 01 Z28 Camaro A4 Sure.. its stock. 1:8's.. K3, Inferno GT, and a straight line beater car 1:18.. RC18t Mamba and 3s lipo |
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