somewhat urgent help needed - Chitown R/C - Chicago's Largest RC Car and Truck Community

RobH · (#1 (**permalink**))

Anyone want to come over and break in my .18 cv-rx in my maxx tomorrow (sunday, 10-08) for me? This stuff is startin to piss me off. 2 full chargers on a glow ignitor and it wont stay running long enough to even start breaking it in. $20.

Now I am gonna have to go to work with my fingers all bloody and blistered up, fun.

Michowski · (#2 (**permalink**))

bring it down to the dd race in elburn. Im sure between all of us we can get that thing in perfect working shape. Just gotta give it the heat cycle break in and that will be one killer fast motor.

RobH · (#3 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michowski

bring it down to the dd race in elburn. Im sure between all of us we can get that thing in perfect working shape. Just gotta give it the heat cycle break in and that will be one killer fast motor.

Only way i'd get there is if tex gave me a ride there, and if he did, theres no way I'd be home in time for work.

Michowski · (#4 (**permalink**))

ok well im sure tex will help you then since it sounds like you both live close to each other.

RobH · (#5 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michowski

ok well im sure tex will help you then since it sounds like you both live close to each other.

yeah, but I want to have the motor broken in by sunday, so I can bash all monday, so I doubt he could help.

Michowski · (#6 (**permalink**))

well sounds like 95% of the people on this board will be at the race so dont know what to tell ya. I would suggest going back to factory needle positions and changing your glow plug. Otherwise its hard to say without having it right in front of me.

bigjs · (#7 (**permalink**))

well why don't u just tell us what u r doing, and maybe someone on here can help.

RobH · (#8 (**permalink**))

http://www.outlawrc.com/engine_break-in.htm

Thats the break in method I am using.

I get the engine preheated and everything, and then I get the engine started, but if I adjust the throttle even a small amount, the engine dies, and if i let it idle, it dies in about 4 seconds. Some times as soon as it starts, its reving very high, then other times, very low.

bigjs · (#9 (**permalink**))

did you set the needles according to break in, in the manual. his method seems different from what i've seen or what i've done.

RobH · (#10 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjs

did you set the needles according to break in, in the manual.

Yup, then added 2 full turns as instructed in the wolf break in method.

bigjs · (#11 (**permalink**))

i'd back off the two full turns it may be flooding the engine. i also have never used a heating gun to heat it up before hand.

rocco79 · (#12 (**permalink**))

2 full turns past stock settings is way toooo much !!!!!

Its an o.s. motor right??? They usally are known for quality and a reliable idle and power... Just use the breakin method that the manufactuer recommends man.

Bigjs- The heat gun just helps relieve stress on the one way bearing,conrod and starting system by helping to get the sleeve to expand alittle so there isnt so much friction apon initail start up. It helps alot with super tight engines

bigjs · (#13 (**permalink**))

I knew what it was for, I just said I've never used it. I usually just read the manual and get it running that way. Then just use the heat cycle method. By biggest problem is tuning it after I've gotten it broken in.

RobH · (#14 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocco79

Just use the breakin method that the manufactuer recommends man.

OS break in instructions are very vague.

rocco79 · (#15 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjs

I knew what it was for, I just said I've never used it. I usually just read the manual and get it running that way. Then just use the heat cycle method. By biggest problem is tuning it after I've gotten it broken in.

Ok ok take it easy joe! I dont need you tryin to beat me up tomorrow... I was just tryin to help