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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Streamwood, IL
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07-19-2006, 08:28 AM
cool it made it to the mag, wow it takes a long time for it though.
LST2(His): LRP Z.28R Spec.3, Full Carbon Fiber and all the goodies - $Too much T-Maxx(Hers): Modded TRX2.5, Full RPM, Some REVO goodies $Borderline XXX-NT AD2(His): Modded LRP.18S Pro, Graphite and Aluminium $Great deal Losi Mini-LST(His): Insane Motors, converting to aluminium $Why not X-Ray M18MT(Hers): Tekin 5.4Kv BL, 3Racing all around, Custom 8.4V $Dont ask Watching her T-Maxx still running after I broke all of mine....$Priceless |
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Stop mocking me.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 8,996
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Naperville, second only to Ft. Collins, CO.
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07-19-2006, 08:29 AM
Derek B said:
"It doesn't matter what percentage you use or change to. The thing that matters is that the engine is shimmed correctly. Your engines instructions generally tell you what it's shimmed for. Going up in percentage will make you have to add a shim, while going down will make you take one out. Having less compression, going from 30% o 20% will not harm the engine. Having it shimmed for 20% and going to 30% might cause higher temps and blown plugs. You don't have to "re-break" in the engine, but remember to retune. Just richening it up so you don't run too lean is all you need to do, and retuning for the new fuel." Can't recall all the answers I got here..... |
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Stop mocking me.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 8,996
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Naperville, second only to Ft. Collins, CO.
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07-19-2006, 09:45 AM
Yeah, he doesn't really ask or clarify if the process is the same for small block or big block engines. I was more curious to hear what the answer would be from an "industry guy" at a magazine.
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