Went to the lhs(venture) to pick up a gallon of fuel and some motor mount screws for the mini t. (The fuel was for the maxx). Anyways, I saw a brand new can of top fuel, 33% for 10 bucks! So I went home, fueled up, it ran perfect for the 2 tanks I ran, until the rear diff made the infamous Grinding noise of a stripped diff.

So I went inside, took off the receiver, put it on the mini t, installed the 8000 again, charged up a 7 cell gp1100 and went to drive it. It was really glitchy so I reprogrammed it. A little less glitchy but it was still pretty bad. I reprogrammed it a few times, but reverse still doesn't go perfectly. Its good enough though. Anyways, now I need a new maxx diff!

with all the trx diffs you bought, you could have easily gotten UE diffs.

yep, drop the $150 on some used UE diffs and never look back.

I bet you've spent in the range of $100-$150 on stock maxx diffs.......

I probally have actually. But I really hate spending all that money at once. It is alot easier for me justify 10 here, 8 their and so on. If I find a set of UE diffs for around 100(I know it won't happen, but IF) then I will buy em.

yeah but by now you would have had the UE diffs already in there and wouldn't ever have to worry about blowing anymore diffs.

meaning you've already spent $150..... now(in theory) you have to spend another $150 for a total of $300. You could have just spend the coin in the first place and saved yourself $150

I understand exactly what your saying, but Idk, its jsut harder for me to come by 150 at once and spend it on rc right away, plus I will need new front cvds and center driveshafts.

oh yeah I forgot you would need CVD's....Doh!

Used MIp's or UE's wouldn't be that bad, you'd be up to $200 by then though...either way I guess it'd still be better in the end.

my diffs are giving me crap again too

hehehe

I'm not angry...I just don't get it. You guys saw my Maxx run w/ the .23 and thats stock diffs & gears, wheelies, big jumps, etc. I'm not sure why you both have so much trouble with them. Maybe your landing jumps ON throttle or something.

I didnt jump once actually! I did a high speed run, turned around, pulled the throttle, and WHIRRRRRR it wouldn't move. How the hell do you get so lucky with the .23!

the diffs are holding up fine (so far) but I hate to take the entire thing apart because of a bearing, and now I cant get them shimmed for anything.

I put some shims on, I put it together... to tight, no problem, take it apart remove one shim put it together, its fine. Then I check it again, suddenly its so loose that the gears are skipping.

Yup, those things are a hassle to shim. It just takes alot of patience.

I was shimming the inside first (That will set the mesh) Don't set it up so tight that there is no backlash, there should be a slight amount of play with holding pressure on the bearings. Then shim the outside to take up the slack. When you put the top cover on, the shim pack should just fit into the grooves.

I'm trying to use as few shims as possible to get a good fit, because when you shimmed it, you preloaded one of the rear bearings which is why it failed so quickly.

I got the rear setup, and its using 2 less shims on the outside then the setup you had, but the gears seem to be smooth... but it wouldnt suprise me if Tex came over and said everything is wrong

After you said the bearing failied I thought about that, one set was a little tight. Sorry about that if it was my fault. Thats what I meant by "just fitting" into the grooves, if you force them in, it would sideload the bearing.