I spoke with jim Hottinger on the phone and he's going to swap the block for me. I may be out a piston and sleeve though, what once had amazing compression is now kinda slim. I am willing to bet that debris screwed up the piston and sleeve from when the engine mounting tab broke.

However, he recomended a 1pc mount, I already have one for the Jammin (hadn't installed it cause the engine i have in the buggy is a pull start), but I see no one makes one for the LSP that I can find. Looked on the net a bit.

Does anyone make one?

The best substitute I can find is the KHZ extended mount on a-main. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5245

Anyone know of a better solution?

Khz

The one in your link looks good. I think that would pretty much do the job and cause the chassis to not flex in that section anymore. Which is what took out your motor I'm sure.

Yeah, I'm glad Jim is taking care of it, he's swapping the case.

But I guess I'll order it now. Hopefully the loss of compression is due to the hole in the block and not a screwed piston and sleeve. I really don't wanna buy a piston sleeve on it.

i doubt that caused the problem to be honest. an engine doesnt have to have mechanical pinch to be good, MOST motors these days run the best with no mechanical pinch its all about actual compression and seal b/w the piston and sleeve. Unless it starts running sporadically with a terrible tune and high idle just run it

or if it starts flaming out once it's warm...

I'd just run it.

Well lets put it this way. When I did the flop test it didn't even stall at all
just flopped over immediately.

When just a week ago it would have taken a full minute to flop over. Thats alot of wear in a very short period.

I plan on running it anyways but i was hoping to go a while before doing a piston and sleeve. I may end up doing it much sooner now.

have it pinched. take the crank out and take a look at the center portion it should be barely ruffed up, like some one just touched it with steel wool (and that look we be after like 5-6 gallons) if that part is roughed up u sucked some dirt from the carb

the air leak wouldn't have been at the carb, which had a clean air filter on it and was zip tied so tight the rubber wouldn't even slide on the carb bore.

I'm worried that debris entered from where the crack is. Or that some chunks of the case got inside the area and scratched it up.

Jim said he would look at it.

did you do the flop test with the hole in the crankcase? that would cause it to have no compression and flop over right away. Once it's all sealed back up with a new case I would try the flop test again.

I did, but I was also aware of that possibility.

When I spoke with Jim I basically asked him to take a look at the internals and to give me a ring if there any problems like premature wear because of it.

ya i understand ur worrying about dirt from the crack, but I was just throwing out the possibility that u sucked dirt from another source some other time. The hole in the case shouldnt really effect the flop test at all, the compression is made the strongest when all the ports are sealed, when the piston is approaching the end of its stroke.

And at the same time the piston is approaching the end of its stroke, air/fuel is being sucked into the case under the piston. Hopefuly a clean mixture, doutful by the looks of the pic you showed.

Which is one of the reasons I'm kinda down. It was a great motor and when I got it it would hold the flop test for over a minute.

Granted i'll run it as is, but I'm willing to bet that I'll be replacing the piston/sleeve this year rather than next year.

Oh well, I'll wait to hear what Jim has to say when he gets the engine.