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01-18-2008, 03:55 PM
Axials have the possibilty to be good, your still going to have to assemble everything but, there are directions. If you get one make sure to go with a 55t or higher motor, anything lower count and it seems like a rockracer. Also, pick up the DS parts to fix the defect in the axials, its basically a little ring that keeps them from poping apart. Next time your in there ask for Zach or Jay (Joe at St Charles) and let them know your from the site, it prolly wont get you any discounts but they both read all these threads and will be a little more informed on how to help you.
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01-18-2008, 04:23 PM
Both are good
![]() I would think axial box stock would own a wk box stock with the same electronics, but with minimal work the WK could be brought up to par. |
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01-18-2008, 04:23 PM
its a toss up.... the axial is a good begginer rig, you can put it together, and go out and crawl but, you are going to end up putting about $400 (total) into it. A WK come out of the box rtr for $209, you need to change the motor and do some minor mods that are either free or cheap, under $300 ready to crawl. Either way your going to have to do some work, rather it is building a kit or taking apart a rtr and turning it into a crawler. Price is a definate advantage of the WK (there is a cheaper version without electronics available) but the directions and crawler design of the Ax10 is nice. I cant tell you which truck to buy (well i could but if it was wrong the you would blame me) all I can do is show you the options. There were allot of axials at the last comp second were Wk's followed by TLT's. If your willing to do some inovations and try some things, go WK you wont regret it... If you want to follow what the book says, get the axial... They are both worth the money.
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01-18-2008, 04:26 PM
Hey axial guys...
I might have a solution to the driveshaft popping off issue. I used to have a revo, and the way they connect the outputs to the axles isn't your typical "pop the crosspin" in there by stretching the plastic. You have a center steel square with 2 holes drilled through it. You insert this into the metal U-joint coming off the tranny. Then, you take a pin with a hole drilled in the center and insert it through the U-joint and the block. After that, you take a solid pin and run it through the driveshaft, through the block, and through the pin with the hole and run it out the other side. Then- and this is the part that may help the most- you secure that final pin that goes through the metal driveshaft with two e-clips. So it can't pop off, especially if you shoe-goo those e-clips on. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY4&P=7 Thoughts? |
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01-18-2008, 04:43 PM
I would rather do the axial because im kind of a beginner at crawling, i would rather follow directions and do what they say then do what other ppl say, incase something doesnt fit or something like that. Anyone know what some good esc's and motors are for the axial? How about batteries and other stuff ill need, i already have the m11 so im good with that.
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01-18-2008, 04:54 PM
esc-I'm getting the Novak Xrs to start out with, $50 with forward, brake and reverse all with a small footprint.
motor-integy lathe motor, 55 turn. battery-split 6 cell 2/3aa size pack. Then get the plates or make some for the front axle. Battery looks like this when you're done. ![]() |
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01-18-2008, 05:17 PM
I actually might get this one;
[NOV3555] Novak Fifty Five Crawler Motor Way cheaper here; The Crawler Store LLC :: -Electronics :: Motors :: Novak Fifty Five Crawler Brushed Motor #3555 Looks classy...lol |
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01-18-2008, 08:45 PM
Quote:
so you can see someone else getting screwed at the same time I went into the gas station today and asked for five dollars worth of gas......The clerk farted and gave me a receipt. |
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01-18-2008, 09:48 PM
Quote:
Were you there? I was the kid in the white hoodie, me and my bro were lookin around while my mom went next door for a few minutes. We were in at like 1 maybe, we just wanted to check out the course. |